Discovering more and more about France

I really need to put a map together

I have found some great things, and some things to avoid. I sure have learned a lot from being on the road here in France. I really need to put a map together to summarize all the places that are great to ride a bike in France, and towns that are fun to visit. At home in Colorado, I can read all I want, and research galore, and look at google earth from all angles, but the only way to really know an area is to go, (or ask someone who lives here). 

I am pretty sure we all share common delights when we travel. I am also pretty sure we may have common experiences when we ride a bike in France. Which might lead to common questions, those questions might include:

• Does anyone actually inhabit these small towns I pass through (and if so why are all the shutters closed and no one around)?
• Why don't the cafes seem to serve food (and all have male waiters)?
• If the shop says it opens at 14:00, why is no one around at 15:00?
• Why didn't someone tell me to incorporate not having to pee for 8 hours into my cycling training?
• How can every road in France be under construction?
• Why did they pave every path and hillside to begin with?
• How many tons of gravel does this country use in a year (according to the number of Gravillon signs - it is a lot!)
• Why do horse flys even exist?
• Do church bells ring all night? (and do birds sing louder in France, or what?)
• Why do the French drink such light beer?
• Why will the road signs say 13%, but the cycling maps say the road averages 7.5%? (I want credit for my 13% effort)
• Why do 85 year old ladies ride bikes to the markets in France, but not in America?
• Why are the same 6 pop songs on French radio over and over again?
• Do they really need 2 huge rows of cookies (biscuits) in the super market?
• Why are espressos served in 1 ounce cups?
• Why do they say yes three times in a row?
• Why haven't the French adopted Happy Hour with food and drink?
• And finally, what would it be like to live in France?

After my stay in the Ariege I have gotten the feel for what it would be like to live in France. I don't believe I would have had the same experience if I had stayed only in the highly touristed areas. It has been interesting to experience to local social and cultural scene, the local town and market, the changing weather. To go down to the river after a ride to cool off and watch Elma pick berries for dinner. To watch Mark cutting wood, picking cherries, and working on his land. To watch Elma take care of the house, pull fresh vegetables and herbs from the garden, and create amazing meals. To take the time to simply slow down and watch life in France. 

However, I am pretty sure I can't live in France because the horse flys like me too much, and I don't like them, but I do like so much else that is France. Still if you ever hear me talking about moving to France in the future simply reply with two words "Horse" "Flys". I forgot to share my fun experience at the Pharmacy the other day when I cycled into town in plain clothes and attempted to ask for creme for the terrible itching. Just another experience traveling in France.

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Morning Market in Foix

Picture of the Day: cheese in France is not cheap

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Col de Port is a great ride

A good bike ride in the Midi-Pyrenees if you are in the area

Between St Girons and Tarascon-s-Ariege lies the Col de Port (south of Foix) along the D618. This is a fabulous ride. If you are in the area, or traveling between areas, at the very least, let someone out of the car to ascend and descend this climb. Where else will you see a profile like this? The color blue = fun!

This year the Col de Port is not included in the Tour de France, but it has been in years past. In 2010, Stage 14 of the TDF travels just to the east from Revel to Ax-3-Domains. And then again during Stage 15 of the 2010 TDF the route travels from the north in Pamiers, just to the west and south to Bagneres-de-Luchon. Col de Port is in the middle of all that excitement.

Picture of the day: the view from the cafe at the top of the Col de Port. Over to the right I could see the mountains of Andorra and Spain.

*By the way, the Auberge (between Biert and Massat), Les Deux Velos serves lunch, so if you are riding or driving by, you may stop in for lunch or a drink. It is not signed as a cafe, but walk through the bike gate, knock on the door and ask Elma or Mark.

 

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Cycling in the Ariege

I have moved valleys and am now in the Ariege region of the Midi-Pyrenees

I have been curious about this part of the Pyrenees for years. The Tour de France often comes through this area. It is peppered with Cols and I wanted to see what the area was about. I had found the cycling guest house where I am currently staying online. Funny thing is the Irish lads that I met at Paddy & Olive's cycling guest house La Lanterne Rouge, where coming here directly from Saint Savin. Bill Field, whom I also met at La Lanterne Rouge, had been here last year. Now it was my turn. 

Le Deux Velos was purchased two years ago by a really nice Dutch couple. Elma is an artist and a fantastic cook. Mark has been working hard to renovate the old quirky farm house. Right now you won't have a private bath, shower or sink in every room, but they are working on this. It is also on the road to Massat, and so it is a bit noisy with car traffic. That said, both of them have lots of ideas to improve the property and are very happy to be living here (well, except for the fact that they are missing out on the celebration at home for the Dutch being in the World Cup Finals).

Last night we enjoyed a delicious meal out on the patio (above), and then Elma and I walked 45 minutes up the steep hill behind their guest house to the home of some friends of theirs. Mark had driven up earlier to watch the World Cup soccer match with 4 other friends. Of course the Nederlands National Football team won. Everyone celebrated with champagne exhausted from hours our cheering for their team. They were so happy. I sat among them as they enjoyed each others company and spoke French, Dutch, and a English all mixed together.

Today's ride was hot, and very green. I laughed when I saw the sign that said that I was on the Route du Cols. It seems they have a route du everthing over here. Today I was on part of the route that is included in the Raid Pyrenee. I rode from Biert to Massat and climbed the Col d'Agnes (which had lots of names painted on the road at the top, and horrendous gravel for most of the climb, do not descend down to Massat from Col d'Agnes, at least until the gravel settles, even though the ascent up from Aulus-les-Bains is rated as a better climb). I then climbed the Col de Latraup, and looped back to Biert. This area has tougher riding than I expected. The valleys are dramatically steep, almost like Switzerland, the descents seem to take forever.

In the town of Massat, I met a group of 12 riders from Vermont who organize a self supported ride every year. They had a 2 person support vehicle following them from Biarritz to south of Perpignon:

This is the road on the way to Col de Agnes and the Port de Lers

Junction of Col d'Agnes and Port de Lers

 Looking up at the pass

Col d'Agnes

I had a long long descent off of the Col d'Agnes and then a climb up to the Col de Letrape

Col de Latrape

Seix was a nice town along the loop route back.

town of Seix, France

beautiful Ariege

Tonight I had what could be one of the best meals I have ever had in my life prepared by Elma. It was fantastic. The evening cooled off a bit and we were able to enjoy a meal outside in the back field, and then had some fresh mint tea from the garden and watched the World Cup football match (on the laptop, at the patio table). Fun.

fantastic cooking by Elma!

Tomorrow if it is this hot again, I am sitting in the river with a beer all day.
* I was happy to see Cancellara in yellow in the Tour de France, but bummed that Franck Schleck is out of the Tour. I have always enjoyed seeing the Brothers Schleck compete together in the Tour de France. 

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Bananas and Bedlam?

Today we will witness the long anticipated unknown outcome of Stage #3 of the Tour de France

Some recent  comments about Stage 3:

“If there’s a crash, then it generally blocks the road completely,” David Millar of Garmin-Transitions said, adding that he often had “lost the will to live” by the cobbles’ end. “There are guys getting off the bikes, running around in the field next to the road,” he said. “It’s bananas.” 

Voigt, 38, has seen that happen plenty of times. Once, he recalled, he had to avoid smashing into a rider who had fallen and broken his femur. Such bedlam is good for the fans, though, Voigt said.

“Remember in ancient Rome, the gladiator fights they had?” he said. “It’s going to be awesome; it’s spectacular for the people on the sofa, having a little Bud Light on the side. But for us poor fellows on the road there? For us, it’s terrible.”

>
Chris Horner's video diary yesterday was good - he basically said leave the cobbles in the classics, the classics to the classic riders. He made a very valid point in saying that if you take out a few GC guys early in the race from falls, it makes the rest of the race much less interesting to watch. This is only the 4th day of racing. We have 17 more days to go in the Tour de France. 

Try to imagine putting a nordic skier on a downhill ski course for the day simply for the entertainment of the spectators. Sure all the racers know how to ski and they know speed, but the equipment is different, the technique is different, and the type of rider that rides the classics is of a different build. 

The General Classification (GC) riders with the ability to win the Tour de France, are smaller and lighter, they do not ride the spring classics in Belgium, the classics are for the bigger men. Sure the classic riders participate in the Tour de France, but they suffer. They are heavier stronger riders, they are the Clydesdales used to power the peloton over the long haul stages. Bob Roll (the Clydesdale) once said of Andy Hampsten (the GC), we bring him to the climb, then Andy is, "spit out like a watermelon seed" off the front.  

Riders on a bike team have different purposes, and so do the cobbles. The purpose of the cobbles is for the entertainment of the spectators, and for the benefit of the sponsors by attracting huge numbers of fans to watch bananas and bedlam. I hope the organizers haven't made a mistake in attempting to attract the huge numbers of fans in the north and forgetting about the fans in the south. At the end of the day, we will know which riders have survived for the rest of the millions of fans to come see in the weeks ahead.

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Dancing on the Pedals on 8%

Nothing like starting the morning on 8%
 

So far I have cycled on the Route of Cheese, the Route of Flower Cities, the Route of Tourmalet, but today's route felt more like the Route de Cafe au lait. Shortly after my first cup (bowl) of coffee this morning I headed out the door to the 8% climb up the Col du Soulor. 

It was a quiet lazy morning climb, not too many climbers or cars by this point. Just your typical sheep in the road kind of ride.

When you see these, you know you are almost at the top of the Col du Soulor.

A lazy scene, even at the top.

Not much happening, so I headed over to the Col d'Aubisque ...

I found the top of the Col d'Aubisque somewhere in this heavy cloud.

Still it was nice enough to sit out and enjoy a second coffee of the day at the Bar/Cafe at the top of the Col'dAubisque. By now a large crowd had gathered as riders came up the Aubisque from Laruns, or across from the Soulor (my route).

The men above were part of a group of cyclists with Pyractif. Pyractif offers guide services and accommodation for their clients in Bertren. I wish I could stay there too. These riders were on their way down the Col du Soulor and up the Col du Tourmalet. I met the tour guide operator and one of the riders, Frank Bowman who gave them rave reviews, admitting that he was typically a difficult customer. All the riders looked happy, fit, and well informed.

I am a big believer in avoiding the super large bike tour companies. You will experience so much more of the true experience of cycling in France if you try to make it to France on your own and use the services of a smaller lodge or guide service. Velo Peloton (guest house and some tours) and Pyractif (tours) will even collect you from the nearby airports and train stations. I am so thrilled to be finding places like this in France that understand cyclists.

I then met a very friendly group of hikers from Fort Collins, Colorado, USA. D&D live half of the year near Cahors and half of the year in France, how lucky are they?

Next arrived John and John from the Nederlands. I again saw them down in the town of Arrens-Marsous and rode with them for a bit. It is not that I spent half the day at this cafe (although I could have), it is more that people tend to be happy and friendly when they are doing what they love to do.

I finally got myself moving again, and had a cold descent into Eaux Bonnes and then turned around and came back up the Aubisque. Yes, I like to climb, but I also appreciate the historical significance of these classic climbs of the Tour de France. I simply love being there. I love knowing every turn in my body, and in my mind, so that when I watch the stages of the Tour de France on TV, I honestly know what it feels like to be there. It feels awesome!

Upon return to the Col d'Aubisque again, the clouds had really settled on the Col.

My artistic photo of the day:

And then a return across to the Col du Soulor a second time (I could have ridden this road back and forth all day). When I descended the Col du Aubisque back to the Soulor, the fog was so thick I could hardly see 10 meters in front of me. I could hear cow bells all around me, but I could not see any cows. What an experience trying to descend and not knowing what I would come across.

I arrived back at my Chambre d'Hote to a warm shower and to watch Stage #2 of the Tour de France. I received an email from a friend sitting in Vail, CO watching the same last few km of the race, and from my brother sitting in Laguna Beach, CA - what fun. (I was happy for Chavenel's emotional win today)

It felt so right being on this highway in the clouds today. Tonight pizza! Tomorrow I'm heading to the St Girons/Foix area.

 TDF Reading Assignments (from my brother):
Chris Horner Video Diaries are starting
Neal Rogers does a daily scoop
Wilcockson Articles
Horner Blog
Macur - NYtimes

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Sights in the French Pyrenees

Picture of the day

A big Great Pyrenees in the Pyrenees with a great big snack

He was just cruising up the road on his own, on his way to the Col du Soulor from Ferrieres. I'm not sure if this was a pickup or delivery.

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Today in France

Every day is a new experience in France
My faux pas of the day: I placed my yogurt into the bowl I was supposed to drink my coffee out of and had to awkwardly ask for a cup. Oops. 
My best purchase of the day (a close tie between these two items): 

My happy experience of the day: the rain stopped and the clouds lifted to reveal the most magnificent scenery on Earth: the valley on the east side of the Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque. If you are even close to this area - come!
My picture of the day: 

My brother is right, having free time in France is the best thing ever! (and I got some real work done today so I feel super).

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2010 Tour de France begins today!

8.9 km Prologue in Rotterdam

It is a foggy cool morning in the Vallee d'Arrens in France. Rain is expected today in Rotterdam. Everyone is by now in place at the start of the Tour de France; the teams, the journalists, the support crews, the caravan kids, the podium girls, and hopefully the fans - even in the rain I hope they turn out.

I think of the prologue as a show, almost a parade, when all the riders are present for what could be the first and last time in this long race. The prologue will be an 8.9km individual all out sprint time trial. The prologue will not be a day for the climbers, and maybe not for the GC (overall) contenders. This day is for the guys who sprinted home from school, against all the other kids, on their bikes. Long before fatigue and fate and team tactics have set in over the coming days of the Tour de France, you can expect only smiles and good legs at the Prologue.

The fun part about being in France in July, is the TV coverage of the Tour de France is complete. I won't only see the last 35km or a 1 hour summary of the day on Versus. Any time between 16:15-19:42 (8:15-11:42am Colorado time) I can watch the Tour de France in a local bar in France or at my Chambre de Hote. Awesome!

Just as I like to see the before and after pictures of our President when he takes office and again on his last day. Someone should take a before and after picture of the riders when they start the TDF and three weeks later, when they finish the TDF. Could a man get any skinnier? Here we go again with these three:

Andy Schleck, Alberto Contador, Lance Armstrong. Add Evan Basso and Cadel Evans, a few cobbles in Stage#3, some illness, some falls, some unexpected attacks, some rain and some hot weather - and we have a race worth watching all the way to the final podium in Paris.

TDF reading assignments:

A good post today on the Irish Peloton
Another good blog post from yesterday on Pave
I like reading Andy Schleck's diaries: My thoughts on my Tour de France rivals
You want images, videos, maps, all facts TDF go to: http://www.steephill.tv/tour-de-france/

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Tour de France - Five Fact Friday

Tour de France Trivia

• The 2010 Tour de France will have 22 teams on 20 different bike frames. Only Specialized and Pinarello frames will sponsor and be ridden by two teams.
• Not every year begins with a Prologue. There are not always 21 stages. In 2010 there will be 1 prologue and 20 stages.
• The smallest time difference between overall first and second place was in 1989, Greg Lemond beat Laurent Fignon by 8 seconds on the last day.
• The largest time difference between overall first and second place was in 1952, Fausto Coppi beat Stan Ockers by 28:17.
• Fabio Felline (age 20) of FOT will be the youngest rider at the 2010 Tour de France. There are 4 riders who will be the oldest (racing age 39). They are Lance Armstrong, Chris Horner, Christophe Moreau, and Jens Voigt.

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Today I rode to the Frontiere of Spain

Locals and GPS systems can lead you to the oddest places

Cycling to Pierre-St-Martin

Marie Eclaire (as I call the women's voice on my car GPS system), took me on a 4-wheel-drive farm road today. I was certain I was going to end up in some farmer's barn, wearing lycra, and wondering if it would be acceptable to ask if I could stay for a morning cup of coffee. Later Marie Eclaire successfully navigated me through the town of Oloron-Saint-Marie (another one of those towns where I often get lost), proving her worth.

I arrived at my destination of the small town of Arette, after wandering around the morning market in Oloron-Saint-Marie. Arette is a wonderful town. It has a couple of nice cafes, and lots of cyclists riding through town on the D918. The D918 is a great scenic road. As I was starting my climb in Arette, I saw a large group of cyclists passing through town. They were all wearing the same yellow and green jerseys, 7 hours later, I saw these same jerseys climbing up the Col d'Aubisque. God knows where those poor souls are now.

*Note: I think they are almost finished repaving the road up the Col du Soulor across to the Col d'Aubisque. There is lots of gravel however, and sadly all the history of the white painted names of the Tour de France are wiped away every time they repave a road. I wonder who will paint the first "Lance" across the new road.

Today's climb was suggested by a local I had met the other day on the Col d'Ichere. He pointed to the climb on my map and told me it was very difficult. About a third of the way up the climb I found the difficult 15%. My Michelin map actually had a tiny 15% printed on the map, I don't see that often. I rode from Arette up to the Col du Soudet to Pierre-Sainte-Martin.

I had heard early rumors that this 22Km climb would be included in the 2010 Tour de France, in the end it was not. It is a tough one. Lots of 9.5% and 10%, plenty of 12% and a section of 15%. This is not a climb I would recommend on your first, second, or even third trip to the Pyrenees. But I am wanting to ride new areas, or ride the climbs I have ridden before from the other direction.

This climb is one of the obscure out of the way climbs like the Col d'Izoard, or the Cormet de Roseland (both in the Alpes). What these climbs have in common are nice towns at the bottom but not much at top. Col de Soudet has Arette, Cormet de Roseland has Beaufort, Col d'Izoard has Briancon.

The climb to Pierre-St-Martin is also one of the climbs that ends at a ski station. Expect any climb ending at a ski station to be deserted in June. Ski stations are not attractive. This climb was a forested climb for much of it, with few riders. I saw a friendly pod of 3 Germans coming down the mountain as I was nearing the top. I saw them again in the cafe in Arette after the ride. They greeted me warmly with smiles (crazy American woman riding these big climbs on her own...). It had just started to rain, so I parked my bike next to theirs and enjoyed a nice coffee.

What is not easily recognizable on a map of France is which rides and roads and towns are good and which ones are not. I will be adding lists to help you better plan your trips in the future. For now, I'm busy riding my bike in France, and getting lost. And the Tour de France begins tomorrow!

Images from my day and riding to the edge of France and Spain:

 

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More tips on traveling to France with a bike

More Tips on How to travel around France with ease

I am receiving good feedback from those cyclists heading to France for their own bike trips. So to continue with some travel tips:

Water while you are riding a bike in France:
Many small towns have a central water spigot or fountain. It will be recognizable by a metal spout and a brick basin or pond. Some are free flowing, other need to have the knob pulled or pushed. The water is drinkable if signed "eau potable", don't drink it if it is labeled with a non potable sign. It is good, enjoy the water for free. Otherwise a coke at a small shop works well, or buy an espresso at a cafe and fill your bottles in the restroom. (This one is in Saint-Marie-de-Campan on the way up to La Mongie on the east side of the Tourmalet).

Don't drink the water you see flowing from the mountain side or from random creeks, or if it at all looks like farm animals drink from the source. If you have a concern, ask a local. If you are really desperate for water, ask a camper or a person in a RV for help. >

Bikes outside of cafes:
In small towns it is fine to rest your bike (velo) against a wall and sit and have a coffee or a drink or lunch. Bikes are generally safe in small towns and at the top of the Cols. Do not leave your bike unattended in the large towns or cities. Not even to rest them against a post when you are sitting nearby having a drink. It simply is not wise. Also do not leave your purse, laptop, or bike visible in your car. We buy an inexpensive blanket and cover them up, or try not to travel with them in the car.

Good roads to ride upon:
Avoid the Red roads, Yellow is okay if scenic, White is the best. Watch for no bike signs and don't go there. Expect to get lost around Argeles-Gazost. It is simply confusing, to nearly everyone. I wrote a post about understanding bike signs in France in June 2010.

Peage/Tollways in France:
Not all tollbooths are created equal. You will receive a ticket at some and be required to pay at others. The open lanes are marked by a green light. If you pull your car up and a ticket comes out, pull it out and save it safely, drive on. At the next station you come to, insert the card and then your credit card to pay the required amount. Retrieve your card, and drive on.

If you arrive at the booth and see only a coin bucket or a due amount showing, toss in the coins, or use your card. Using a credit card is much easier at all tollbooths.

Parking Lots in France:
Parking in City Centers are often fee parking marked by a Blue square sign with a white P. These blue signs will lead you to the public parking lots. Whenever you see the Blue P Public Parking Lot, drive up to the gate and push the button to collect your card. Park your car and take your card with you. Go shopping, eating, touristing, whatever. Upon return to the lot. Locate the parking payments kiosks/machines. You pay upon return, get back into your car, and place the card in the gate booth upon exit.

This order is important. Also many of these parking garages close at 10:00pm (22:00). They'll lock your car in. One time we happened upon a great outdoor country music concert in Pau and decided to stay and listen, only to return to find our car was locked inside the garage. We had to take a taxi home and ride a bike back into the city the next morning. So much for wild nights in the Pyrenees.

Beware some open air parking is also marked as payment required. Payment will be painted on the asphalt or signed. Locate the small pillar/booth and purchase a timed parking pass to be placed on your front dashboard.

Food after your ride:
If you finish your ride after 2:00pm, look for Boulangeries (Bakery), Bouceries (Butcher)/Charcouteries (Deli), they should be open. If you are like me and enjoy protein after a ride, the Charcouteries have meats and salads, the Boulangeries have quiche, small pizettas, and perhaps ham and cheese sandwiches. Or look for small grocery stores in the towns where you don't have to leave your bike unattended. Buy some food and sit outside and eat it.

Watching the TDF coverage on TV:
Then look for a Bar/Tabac or Cafe Bar. They will serve you a cold drink (no food at the hours the TDF will be on so eat up at the bakery). The Bars will allow you to watch their TV so you can catch up on the Tour de France when it is in the part of the country where you are not. Bars often have the large TVs. Greet the Bartender kindly, "Bonjour Monsieur", you may ask the bartender nicely "pouvons-nous regarder la TV?, le Tour de France, si'l vous plait? (may we watch the Tour de France, please) pointing to the TV. Then settle in to watch the race and be sure to buy a couple of drinks. The World Cup is on right now, so it might take priority, but the French love the Tour de France as well. Say thank you and goodbye upon leaving. "Merci, Au revoir Monsieur".

Routard Guide Book Ratings:
Many establishments in France will carry the sign of Routard outside their restaurant or hotel. The symbol is of a hiking man with a backpack and walking stick. They are about 8"x10" in size and will be hanging by the front entrance. Look for these plaques. They are regarded as recommendable. Usually they will lead you to a truly French experience. If you are roaming through a town looking for a place to stay or eat, select a Routard recommendation.

Paying with a credit card at the Super Market:
Again our USA credit cards do not have the required chip as is customary in France, and so I always simply hand my credit card to the cashier. The are very understanding about running the card for you. Sometimes they will swipe it in a different machine. Again show that you are grateful for this added service.

Maps:
I purchase an Atlas of France before leaving home. I cut out the individual pages where I will be traveling. I highlight my proposed routes on the pages. I bring a small plastic baggie. Every day I select the page that contains my route of the day and stick it in the baggie, and place it in my jersey pocket. This keeps the map dry and readily available.

I purchase the individual Michelin LOCAL paper maps of the areas where I will be traveling. I use these for large scale planning, for driving, and to see the entire route of one stage of the Tour de France. Be sure to buy only the Local Michelin maps, when you are on a bike, you will need that much detail. These are the traditional size maps, and are too large to carry with you on a bike, that is why I prefer the individual Atlas pages instead.

Map #s: *342, 338, 340, 343, 344, 335

Trafic Signals:
You should stop for red lights in a car and on a bike. The lights are often 2 meters to 5 meters before the intersection. Be sure to stop before the light so you can see when it changes. We are used to driving directly up to the intersection to look both ways, if you do this you will be stuck in no-mans land wondering when to go. (A flashing yellow light, means to proceed ahead slowly.)

Oui Oui Oui:
In the countryside of the Pyrenees, oui is not pronounced as "wee", but as sort of a combination of "waih or weuh", you will hear this a lot. The sound of "wee" is of the north, of the big city, of more formality. A positive response sounds something like: "yah way" (they are not telling you to go away).

Chip n' Pin Credit Cards
Update July 2012: After spending 18 days in France, I can report that my American based chip card worked well in restaurants, markets, shops, E.Leclerc gas stations (CB card signs), autoroute gas stations, Tollbooths with the CB card signs (only!!). It did NOT work at standard tollbooths (I kept coins ready), parking meter pay stations, and unattended gas stations (without the blue CB card logo), and some small retailers. It was however very convenient to have, since most credit card machines are not swipe machines but insert your card machines.

Also read my earlier post with additional tips: Getting around France with ease

Alright, there you go, more of "more than you ever dream to know" about traveling around France with a bike. Also I'm going to be giving some TDF fan tips coming soon. Happy travels!

A picture out my backdoor from today. (This is looking south down the Vallee d'Ossau to the Pic du Midi d'Ossau. The Col d'Aubisque is up to the left, the Col de la Marie Blanque is over to the right). Heaven!!


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