The Creperie on the Col

One of the best landmarks of cycling

There is the Giant of the Tourmalet, the Henri Desgrange stone pillar on the Col du Galibier, the pointed white observatory on Mont Ventoux, but without a doubt one of the most beloved landmarks for visiting cyclists to France, is a tiny creperie on the crest of the Col de Peyresourde in the Pyrenees.

Why, because cyclists can linger at a table at this creperie and watch fellow cyclists come and go with a sense that they have not been the first, nor will they be the last. It's also a gem exactly because it is not. It's a shack.

As I sit at home in the United States, I often think of that small brown wooden building on a grassy pass in France. I remember the characters who work inside, who take the time to ask where cyclists have traveled from. They ask knowing the answers will most often vary greatly, for this creperie is not located at a peak, but along a passage. A passage that hosts cyclists from around the world often on their way to other magnificent mountain passes.

It is a place to say "I have been there!"

So when I read today, that this special creperie, on the Col de Peyresourde, had been damaged by a recent avalanche at the end of February, my heart sunk. Oh no! Not the creperie!

Read (and see the images): Café on Col de Peyresourde damaged, by Velo Peloton.

I have cycled to the creperie three times and driven past it a few more. It is a fantastic place and I hope it is rebuilt in all its shack-like glory. I have stood next to this landmark with family, friends and by myself. It is a place I like to imagine still exists.


©All photos by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer®

The wonderful Creperie on the Col de Peyresourde, Pyrenees, France

On the Col de Peyresourde on Tour de France day 2012:

Everyone here - rode their bike to the top

A landmark for cyclists

Characters!

A great place to people watch

The scene at the top of the col with riders coming and going

The creperie set up for max capacity on Tour de France day

Camping out before the stage start

We visited Peter Thomson of Thomson Bike Tours at their perfectly placed perch on the Col in 2012

Typical scene on Tour de France day with campers, cars, hikers and cyclists

Camping all along the west side of the road to the Col de Peyresourde

This is what is feels like to camp out in advance of the Tour de France (this is a choice location). We rode up from Arreau on this day.

The simple beauty of cycling up the Col de Peyresourde on a non-Tour de France day in 2010 - pure peace and quiet.

My first visit to the creperie in 2008 with my brother Mike, and friend Dash.

Learn more about the climb to the Col de Peyresourde  on VeloPeloton's informative page: Col de Peyresourde

The road up and over the Col de Peyresourde travels along the bottom of that valley floor (left (west) to right (east)) between these mountains. The ridge in the background unleashed it's snow on the small wooden structure of the creperie below (view from the top of nearby Peyragudes Ski Resort)

Location of the smooshed creperie

PYRENEES

My favorite climbs scattered across the Pyrenees are: Col de Agnes, Col du Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Hourquette d'Ancizan, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet, Hatuacam, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aubisque, Col de Marie Blanque, Col d'Ichere.

Map of my favorite climbs in France https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zF3Mdi_RS4EA.khPsCpthHhgk

Also read an earlier post by Pedal Dancer - a travel series : Guess Where? #2

The Climbs of the 2014 Tour de France

Your new bucket-list for France

Years ago my interest in riding a bike in France grew from watching the Tour de France on TV every July. Honestly I spent years being baffled by the names and locations. It didn't help that the Tour de France basically changes direction every year (clock-wise / counter-clockwise) and frequently starts in distant countries (this year in England).

TV commentators and magazines articles throw out names and terms as if I was born knowing what and where these climbs were located in France, but it takes years to learn the lingo of any sport and language of a country. In regards to the Tour de France, it is challenge enough to keep track of what stage is where and whether it is a no-miss gotta see that stage stage.

So this year I am planning ahead for the stages and climbs I really want to see.

In 2014 the Tour de France begins in England, rumbles clockwise across some cobbles into Belgium and northern France, and then enters the Alps far to the east. The key stages are in the Pyrenees this year, and if a GC man has not developed a clear 3-minute lead by that point in week three, contenders still have the final individual time trial to fight it out in the commune of Bergerac, located in the heart of France.

What not to miss in the 2014 Tour de France

If you want to see the key climbs of the 2014 Tour de France, you will need to mark your calendar for these dates, and then add the climbs that interest you to your France Bucket List:

Monday, 14 July 2014 - Stage 10 Mulhouse / La Planche des Belles Filles
Friday, 18 July 2014 - Stage 13 Saint-Étienne / Chamrousse
Saturday, 19 July 2014 - Stage 14 Grenoble / Risoul
Tuesday, 22 July 2014 - Stage 16 Carcassonne / Bagnères-de-Luchon (not a mtn top finish)
Wednesday, 23 July 2014 - Stage 17 Saint-Gaudens / Saint-Lary Pla d'Adet
Thursday, 24 July 2014 - Stage 18 Pau / Hautacam

THE MOUNTAINS

The 2014 Tour de France will visit three mountain ranges in France:

1. Vosges
2. Alps
3. Pyrenees

Locate the mountain areas of France. Map by Pedal Dancer click to enlarge

THE CLIMBS

A decade ago I spent hours scouring the internet or squinting at huge paper maps trying to learn more about the climbs of France. Today there are wonderful tools and fellow bloggers who bring the roads of France right to our screens. We are so in the know now that I instantly recognize when Phil and Paul get a geographical fact incorrect, and this from an American sitting in Denver, Colorado.

Modern mapping and websites have added greatly to my joy of watching the Tour de France. I would like to recommend these other websites for exact details about the climbs of the 2014 Tour de France.

For an excellent detailed map of every climb in the 2014 Tour de France, by Cycling The Alps: Cycling the Alps Tour de France 2014 Stages. I love this collection of climb maps, each climb location map offers 3D tours, profiles, and street views. 

Climb By Bike individual climb profiles and difficulty ratings of the climbs: Climb By Bike 2014 Tour de France

For more about the combination of climbs and stage descriptions of the 2014 Tour de France, I prefer the straight-froward guide by Team SKY: Tour de France race guide Preview of the 101st edition

Veloviewer teamed up with Team SKY for this cool post about the 2014 climbs in the Tour: Tour de France: The Climbs, A unique look at the race's toughest uphill tests.

Climbs in England (even if short, 20% is still steep!): Climbs of Stage One, Tour de France 2014, by HedgehogCycling.  A detailed description of the 14 climbs in Stage 2, read: The Climbs of Stage 2 of the 2014 Tour de France – Part 1 and The Climbs of Stage 2 of the 2014 Tour de France – Part 2, by Veloviewer.

The ten most difficult climbs in the 2014 Tour de France are considered to be (name, key climb (*), location and stage #):

1. Planche des Belles Filles Jura, Vsoges; Stage 10
2. Col de Palaquit Rhone-Alpes; Stage 13
3. Col de lIzoard * Provence-Alps-cote d'Azur (Alps); Stage 14
4. Risoul - Station Provence-Alps-cote d'Azur (Alps); Stage 14
5. Port de Bales * Midi-Pyrénées; Stage 16
6. Col du Portillon Catalonia (near France - Spain border of Pyrenees); Stage 17
7. Col de Val-Louron Azet  Midi-Pyrénées; Stage 17
8. Le Pla d'Adet * Midi-Pyrénées; Stage 17
9. Col du Tourmalet * Midi-Pyrénées; Stage 18
10. Hautacam * Midi-Pyrénées; Stage 18 

View from Col de Val-Louron Azet descent (foreground) across the valley to the climb up Le Pla d'Adet (backgournd).  Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer, 2010

The road up the secluded Col d'Izoard, Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer, 2007

Final climb up Col du Tourmalet. Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer, 2008

The green hillside of Hautacam, Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer, 2010

GETTING IT DONE

Forget anything you hear about average grades, these climbs are steep, much steeper than any average measurement or pro rider might indicate. The average cyclists will rejoice in reaching the summit or pass and during three hard weeks of racing, so too will the pros.

Alberto Contador was out riding the key stages of the Tour in May. To quote an article in CyclingNews, Contador said, "(The Hautacam stage) will be a very easy day to control." "The stage Saint-Lary [stage 17] will be really tough ... It will be a fast day and difficult to control for the leader. There will be opportunities to make tactical moves." Don't forget about the penultimate stage, the individual time trial, the day before Paris, Contador said about it, "It is really demanding because of it's length. It will be one of the hardest days of the entire race."

How to climb well

I really like this post from Cycling Tips circa 2013: How to become a better climber, by Helen Kelly, Kelly Cycle Coaching - November 18, 2013


Chris Froome offers his tips on how to climb (he fails to mention that 4% body fat tip), video:

LE TOUR

Classification of climbs in the Tour de France 

When the Tour de France first began, there was only one type of mountain - hard. By 1947 Le Tour organizers decided to use two classifications for the climbs (First and Second) to offer additional points. It was so popular that by 1949 a third classification was added, the forth by 1962. We had to wait until 1979 for the most well-known category to be added - Hors Catégorie, the rating which instills fear into most riders.

The Col du Tourmalet is the HC climb which has been included most often in the Tour de France. The peloton will again visit it in 2014, followed quickly by another HC climb - Hautacam. Double ouch.

HC - Hors Catégorie (beyond categorization) the most difficult
1 - First Category, hardest
2 - Second Category
3 - Third Category 
4 - Fourth Category, easiest

Profile of HC Col du Tourmalet and HC Hautacam in 2014 TDF

KOM Classification

The official Le Tour website explains the sporting stakes for the mountain classification in the Tour de France.

KOM jersey 2014

Rules: The polka-dot is worn by the best climber. Points for the best climber classification are awarded at the top of any classified slope. The prize money is doubled on the stage finishes that will take place at the summit of climbs. Prize money: €25,000 for the overall winner (€109,200 in total). The Polka Dot Jersey is sponsored by Carrefour (a major market chain in France).

CLIMB IT YOURSELF!

My Favorite Climbs in France

I created a new map highlighting my twenty favorite climbs in France. I think it is totally cool. Not all of these climbs are featured in the 2014 Tour de France, but they have been in the past or most certainly will be again in the future. On this map, I am only recommending the climbs I have done and really liked. See the post at: My Top Twenty Climbs in France - Pedal Dancer®

This year, five of my favorite climbs - Col d'Izoard, Col d'Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Col du Tourmalet and Hautacam - will be featured in the 2014 Tour de France.

Link to map: https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zF3Mdi_RS4EA.khPsCpthHhgk

Pyrenees Climbs: My friend Paddy Sweeney at VeloPeloton has compiled an excellent extensive map and quide to the climbs in the Pyrenees. A highly recommended location to start ticking off the climbs on your bucket list.  He even offers a Tour de France filter to the map, which will show you all 40 climbs in the Pyrenees ever to be included in the Tour de France.

Alps Climbs: Cycling the Alps has a mind blowing maps of ALL the climbs in the French Alps: http://www.cyclingthealps.com.

I list some recommended Bike Tour Companies that can make this dream of climbing the cols of the Tour de France happen for you, here:  Recommendations and Resources, or on this post which explains which tour companies guide in which country: Take a Tour

Read more about the 2014 Tour de France on my Guide Page: TOUR DE FRANCE

With all these mountains waiting to be climbed - you will definitely need more than one trip to France!

My Top Twenty Climbs in France

We all have our favorites, these are mine

Since 2003, I have been fortunate to ride a bike frequently in France. I want you to know I actually wrote out five other posts in route to mapping out and writing this one simple post about my favorite climbs in France. You would think it easy, but any time I think of climbs, I think of scenery, I think of traveling to the climbs, I think of the Tour de France .. and I generally get very distracted.

Oh, I like so many things ...

So here it is in all it's simple glory - my favorite top twenty climbs (*top 10) in France: Link to google map of climb locations

Alpe d’Huez *
Col d'Agnes
Col des Aravis *
Col d’Aspin
Col d’Aubisque *
Col de la Columbiére *
Col du Galibier *
Col d'Ichère
Col d'Izoard
Col de Marie Blanque *
Col de Murs
Col de Peyresourde
Col d’Portillon
Col du Soulor *
Col de Tamié
Col de Télégraphe
Col du Tourmalet *
Hautacam
La Hourquette d’Ancizan *
Mont Ventoux *

My favorite, you ask? Well I just have this thing for the Col d'Aubisque to Cirque du Litor to Col du Solour route. The Tourmalet is a must ride. I also love Mont Ventoux in all it's boisterous glory. 

Map of my favorite climbs in France https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zF3Mdi_RS4EA.khPsCpthHhgk

ALPS

My favorite climbs in the Alps: Col de la Colimbiere, Col des Aravis, Col de Tamie, Alpe d'Huez, Col de Telegraphe, Col de Galibier, Col d'Izoard.

PROVENCE

My favorite climbs in Provence (granted I don't know much about Languedoc, which has many good reported rides and climbs): Col de Murs, Mont Ventoux

PYRENEES

My favorite climbs scattered across the Pyrenees are: Col de Agnes, Col du Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Hourquette d'Ancizan, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet, Hatuacam, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aubisque, Col de Marie Blanque, Col d'Ichere.

This year, of my favorite climbs, the Col d'Izoard, Col d'Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Col du Tourmalet and Hautacam will be featured in the 2014 Tour de France.

My favorite areas to travel and ride a bike in France are the Pyrenees, Le Grand-Bornand/Haute-Savoie region of the Alps, and the general areas of Provence and department Vaucluse. I also enjoy riding the foothills of the Pyrenees Atlantique and Haute-Pyrenees. The Dordogne is a fabulous place to visit. Lyon, Marseille, and Toulouse are the preferred smaller airports to fly into with a bike in France.

You can see more of the climbs I have ridden in France on my About page, so many are good, but these are better. Now onto posting those other five posts I wrote on my way to finally mapping out my favorite climbs in France ......

Photos for the Day - Pla d'Adet

Pla d'Adet is a climb in the Vallée d'Aure in the Pyrenees, France

My friend Paddy Sweeney of VeloPeloton climbed Pla d'Adet today (Plah-deh-day). He said, "Overall it's not a particularly hard climb as it is short and would be easier than Luz Ardiden or Hautacam." That is because the Hautacam is in Paddy's back yard and he climbs it (what seems like) every other day. 

I think Pla d'Adet is kind of hard. So much so, that I remember distinctly saying out loud after the last time I descended that mountain in 2010 on Bastille Day, "well I don't need to do that again." Once was enough, plus the 10-hour day we spent on that same mountain in 2005 to watch the Tour de France mountain top finish at the ski station. Do not get stuck in a traffic jam on Pla d'Adet. 

Still that mountain has epic memories for me. Just knowing that it looms over the Vallée d'Aure is magical. In 2010 I climbed a hill opposite simply to photograph it from different angles. Down valley is the city of Saint-Lary-Soulan. I totally disagree with Phil Liggett who claims this town to be one of his favorites in the Pyreness - "What? He needs to get out of that small broadcasting trailer more," I always scream at the TV.

The town of Arreau, north (up or down valley, it depends which way you are riding, because the road feels sort of flat) of Saint-Lary-Soulon, is a lovely town with a patio outside the Hotel de France and a pleasant river to picnic along. I like this valley a lot, it's beautiful. The climbs of Col d'Aspin, Hourquette d'Ancizan, Col d'Azet, and Pla d'Adet line the sides of this valley. Col de Peyresourde, Port de Bales, and Col de Tourmalet (east side) are close by.

All photos by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer®

The climb of Pla d'Adet is on the right of the Vallée d'Aure

The climb begins with a massive switchback.

You climb and climb above the valley

Looking down on the town of Vignec below.

Steepness of the climb

So steep (Paddy) that the houses are perched in stone on the side of the hill.

But Paddy claims it's not so hard. I think it is because he is riding super well this year.  (https://www.facebook.com/pyreneescycling)

Paddy is right that this climb will be part of Stage 17 of the 2014 Tour de France: Route of the 2014 Tour de France, By Pedal Dancer. Paddy is also an excellent photographer.

Related posts by Pedal Dancer (when I climbed it in 2010): Pla d'Adet in 2005 and 2010.

And about the valleys in the Pyrenees: The Valleys of the Pyrenees and The Valleys of the Pyrenees in Pictures

What you do while hanging out on Pla d'Adet for hours for the Tour de France to race by.

Near the finish on Pla d'Adet

Caravan on Pla d'Adet

Being fans at the Tour de France

The riders just kept coming long after the stage was won by George Hincapie in 2005.

And then a massive traffic jam to get off of the road to Pla d'Adet, so ride your bike if you can!

Photo for the Day - Tourmalet Loop Ride

One of the best loop rides in the Pyrenees

Riding along the D26. Part of this recommended loop ride, this road is between Lourdes and Bagneres-de-Bigorre in France

The first road I ever rode a bike upon in the Pyrenees was this beautiful green road above (D26). This may also be one of the very first pictures I took while riding in the Pyrenees. I'd say it was a good introduction.

The D26 happens to be part of one of the best 102 kilometer rides in the Pyreness (in my opinion) and one I have yet to map out and recommend on this blog. So here it is - the loop ride of: Lourdes - Bagnères-de-Bigorre - Campan - Col du Tourmalet - Barèges - Luz-Saint-Sauveur - Argelès-Gazost - Lourdes (starting at any point along the route) and riding in one big loop.

This year, a dream week in the Pyrenees awaits any cyclist lucky enough to attend the Tour de France. If you will be riding in the 2014 L'Etape du Tour, you will ride (race) much of this loop. If you will be attending stages 16,17,18,19 of the TDF, be sure to leave a day available in your itinerary to complete this entire ride on a non Etape (July 20th) or non Tour day (July 24th).

If you have ridden in this area before, watching the landmarks pass by during this year's TDF Stage 18 TV coverage will bring back fond memories. Any time you find yourself riding on the D918 through the Pyrenees, you will surely find a corresponding smile on your face.

Loop ride, Lourdes-Col du Tourmalet  click to enlarge 
Google Map

Route: D26 - D935 - D918 - D921 - D913 - bike path/D921B or D13 through Boo-Silhen back to Lourdes.

This loop ride provides a good sampling of what it is like to ride both the small roads and big mountain passes in the French Pyrenees. I particularly like the first part of this ride (be sure to take the D26 and not the busy D937) through the low-traffic green hills between Lourdes and Bagnères-de-Bigorre. It might seem like it is taking more time than the bigger highway, but the ride and short punchy climbs, are beautiful, fun and a good warm-up to the long steady climb up the D935 to the Col du Tourmalet.

Photos from the ride:  all photos by Karen Rakestraw (or ride partners) at Pedal Dancer (2003-2012)

That is me climbing on the nice quiet road to Campan from Bagnères-de-Bigorre

One of the most recognizable structures on the climb to La Mongie/Tourmalet is this avalanche shelter, (look for it in the TV coverage and you will know how much further the riders have to the summit).

The village of La Mongie might be a little quiet in summer, but you will see lots of cyclists on the road who will give you an encouraging cheer.

Looking back down at the ski village of La Mongie, you have a sense of accomplishing a big climb.

Almost to the top and the steep long climb continues

Just a few more hundred sheep to pass

A couple more curves to the top of the Col du Tourmalet

That small passage to the left marks your arrival at the summit. You will not be alone, this climb is very popular.

You'll need to take your own photo of the Giant, the landmark of the summit.

Sit on the patio at the restaurant at the top of the Tourmalet, have a drink, and watch the riders come and go. For most the climb is an incredible accomplishment.

Carry a souvenir back down the mountain in your jersey pocket

Now you'll have to get off the Tourmalet - down that valley you go on a long long descent west.

Look back to see how high you had climbed

Roll through the town and Barèges

Continue through Luz-Saint-Sauveur, or stop for a drink before continuing

Into the Lavendan Valley and past Saint-Savin (on the hill) and into Argeles-Gazost on your way to Lourdes.

From here you can catch the bike path/road back to Lourdes, this is your warm-down but plenty of miles of steady pedaling. Bikes are not allowed on the freeway, it's a bit tricky at the junction at Argeles-Gazost so check your GPS or map.

Remember the Hautacam sits within this loop ride, at the point of Argeles-Gazost: Photo for the Day - Hautacam.  Luz Ardiden is another off-shoot from this loop, take a left (south) onto the D921 at the town of Luz-Saint-Sauveur. Col d'Aspin can also be climbed from this loop ride, veer off onto the D918 east at the town of Campan.

More information

The #1 source of information, climb profiles, wonderful photographs, and history about climbing the Tourmalet can be found at: Velo Peloton Col du Tourmalet 

Other loop or recommended bike rides I have written about in France:

• Recommended Ride: 100km around Mont Ventoux
• Recommended Bike Route in Pyrenees, France (foothills near Pau)
• Magnificent day in the Haute-Pyrenees (Hourquettes d'Ancizan - Col d'Aspin)
• I conquered the Col de Marie Blanque today (a tough beautiful ride)

The route of this year's L'Etape du Tour (July 20th) includes some of this recommended loop ride (including the section of road between Bagnères-de-Bigorre - Campan - Col du Tourmalet - Barèges - Luz-Saint-Sauveur - Argelès-Gazost). This is basically Stage 18 of the 2014 Tour de France.

Map of route from the city of Pau to the climb of Hautacam.  Map from pyreneesmultisport.com