France is a place to be enjoyed slowly

It doesn't take long to unwind in France
 

I woke up this morning, walked out into the garden and picked fresh cherries from the tree. I decided to take the day off from the bike and explore the area by car and by foot. I took the time to walk around the local towns, to go into the market, to picnic near the river on the road to the Tourmalet. I hiked to the Pic du Midi (almost). 
 

I highly recommend staying in a small town in France. One of the benefits of traveling on your own, is to stay in lodges and B&Bs located in towns that are quiet in the morning and peaceful at night. In the mornings in Saint Savin, I awake to the sound of the church bell ringing, to birds singing, to the smell of burning leaves. I hear neighbors chatting in French. I happen upon morning markets in the nearby town squares. After my bike rides, I return to the lodge and the sound of men playing soccer in the field across the lane. I hear children running and playing, and from my balcony, I watch the old man next door pick raspberries from his garden.
 

This evening after dinner at the cycling lodge, I wondered around the town of Saint Savin taking a few pictures. I took the time to sit and enjoy the view. I returned to sit on my balcony and listened to the music of the festival building in the town square below. Olive and Paddy said there would be a festival in town tonight to celebrate La Fete de Saint Jean. I had no idea what to expect. Just before dark (10:00pm), I scurried back down to town not knowing what to expect.
 

The locals had gathered outside the local bar, drinking and eating. I looked up to see them handing out candles to young and old alike. Suddenly a procession formed and the crowd meandered to the chapel up the hill on the outskirts of town. I walked along with them. We entered the field next to the chapel. I watched as the children gathered, with a few adults, and set their candles to the ground to start a large bonfire.
 

Everyone stood back and watched. The flames reached skyward lighting the night. Afterwards, the locals gathered around a table in the field for cake and coffee. As I sit here now I can hear the music and singing in the streets below as the towns people return to town to continue the party.
 

None of this was planned, and that is the beauty of staying in a small town in France. When I slow my pace, I notice so much more and suddenly feel apart of my surroundings. Today I saw a couple sitting out on the Tourmalet, I thought, "this is so French, to simply park your car, and sit out and enjoy a view together". 
 

There is a new guest at the lodge tonight, he is from Scotland. He said he is here for a week, and he most looked forward to riding and stopping for a drink, and then riding some more, and not worrying about riding with 30 guys, and who is in the break, and pressing the pace. A different sense of time, is the true beauty of France. 
 

Pictures from my day in France:

(There are two chapels in town, this is the other one)

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Today I saw the Tourmalet bring a man to tears

I am sure he wasn't the first to cry, or the last.

The tears could have been from shear relief to have the climb over and done with, but more likely the tears were proof of the emotional response to the accomplishment of conquering the Tourmalet. The Col du Tourmalet is a massive climb. A climb of dreams and determination, of history and triumph. Most cyclists would love to pit themselves against the Tourmalet, even if it meant shedding a tear. I thought I was a bit crazy for attempting it on my third day in France.

I awoke to another glorious blue-skied day in the Haute-Pyrenees. I decided to give the Col du Tourmalet a try today because the weather was perfect and the climb was directly up valley from where I am staying. I am also rethinking my intention of being at the top of the Tourmalet for Stage 17 of the Tour de France. Reportedly 1.5 million are expected to show up for the mountain top finish. The usual number of people on the Tourmalet for a day of the TDF is typically closer to 600,000. The climb is only 19km long.  

Logistically the Tour de France stage to the top of the Tourmalet could be a nightmare. This year's Etape du Tour takes place the Sunday before on July 18, 2010.  Two days later on Tuesday, July 20th, Stage 16 crosses the Tourmalet from the east from Bagneres-du-Luchon to Pau. Two days after that, on July 22nd, Stage 17 crosses back from Pau to the top of the Tourmalet from the west side. 

The organizers of the TDF have planned three huge events on the Tourmalet within 6 days. It seems that there is not enough room for RVs, and cars, and campers, and walkers, and cyclists to coexist on this mountain. Still it will happen, but it will be "mental," as Paddy, the owner of the cycling lodge where I am staying in Saint Savin mentioned this morning. The local rumor is that the route will be closed to all vehicle traffic as early as Friday night, July 16th until after the stage on the 22nd of July.

Because of the uncertainty, I decided to go for the Tourmalet today, just in case it doesn't work out on the day of the Tour de France. Anyway, long story short - it was a hard climb, really hard. As one of the Danes at the cycling lodge warned me over breakfast this morning, "right near the top, you take a left turn into hell". Upon return, I reported back to them that I had found hell a little earlier down the road, "closer to the town of Bareges, I would say". 

This evening at the cycling lodge, Paddy and Olive and Hanna (their niece visiting from Ireland) treated us to a wonderful BBQ dinner outside in the garden. We enjoyed BBQ Toulouse sausage, a spicy local sausage, hamburgers (meat muffins as Casper the Dane called them), lettuce salad, egg salad, cous cous (bulgur), enormous chicken, and lots of red wine. We were visited in the garden by the local 6-year old neighbor boy,  Jean Baptiste, who sprang upon the guests showering us all with kisses on the checks and then sat happily eating the ice cream and apple tart offered him. It wasn't long before his older brother showed up and called him home for dinner. We all had a good laugh realizing we had just stuffed him full of dessert before he had eaten is own real dinner.  Jean Baptiste was truly delightful and I had fun trying to follow his 6-year old french, just about my level. 

The American guest from Jackson Hole, WY, left early this morning. The three Brits also left this morning, and so did the 3 Irish lads from Dublin, who had a great time meeting Lance Armstrong at the top of the Tourmalet yesterday. Mark, Ciaren, and Sean:

*visit Paddy's blog to see some great photos of the guys from Ireland and Denmark hanging out with Lance on the the top of the Tourmalet yesterday. In the photo are Ciaren, Lance, don't know who, and Soren.

This is the garden, and my room at the end with the balcony view of the Hautacam. 

Some pictures from my ride up the Tourmalet today. At the town of Luz Saint Sauveur, hang a right for Luz Ardiden, or a left for the Tourmalet.

The ride up the Tourmalet from the west side is as much a mental game, as it is a physical one. 

I appreciated the encouragement I received from other cyclists who cheered me on as they descended and I was still in hell, continuing my long climb to the top. I heard Allez allez, i-ya, courage, ce bon, and plenty of smiles and nods. 

At the top, I was thinking about asking these guys their opinion on motorized doping.

I wanted to know:

Why were there no signs at the top of the Col du Tourmalet telling me the slope difficulty? I saw two, then they stopped? 

[Answered by Paddy Sweeney] The customary white signs at the top of most climbs in the Pyrenees marking the distance and slope, are removed on the Tourmalet every winter so the skiers do not ski into them. They are replaced again in July.

Another interesting fact offered by Paddy: the famous silver cyclist at the top of the Tourmalet is removed every winter and stored down in Bagneres-de-Bigorre at the Laurent Fignon Cycling Center. He was just brought back up within the past week. This was my third time to climb the Tourmalet, it wouldn't have been the same if this statue had not been there.

The restaurant at the top of the Col du Tourmalet signals you have arrived! I rested for a long time at this cafe because the weather was so nice and the people coming through were very interesting to watch.

Then I made the long descent down valley back to Luz Saint Sauvuer (that is Luz Ardiden in the background) and returned to Saint Savin (the town up on the hillside) near Argeles-Gazost. It is a perfect location.

Read other PedalDancer.com posts on the Col du Tourmalet

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Tour de France - Five Fact Friday

Tour de France Trivia

• The heaviest rider ever in the Tour de France was Magnus Backstedt at 95 kgs or 209.5 lbs. The lightest was Leonardo Piepoli at 57 kgs or 125.7lbs.
• The 1903 Tour de France had only 6 stages. The 1937 Tour de France had 37 stages. The 2010 Tour de France will have 20 stages.
• The Tour de France has its own traveling bank. The only bank open in France on Bastille Day (July 14th). 
• The United States may have riders who have won the TDF in recent years, but they have not always been prominant: France 38 wins, Belgium 18, Spain 11, United States 10. 
• In 1967, British rider Tom Simpson died mid-race after taking amphetamines, prompting the event to adopt drug-testing.

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Today's Bike Ride in France

Lac d'Estaing, Col de Borderes, Col du Soulor

Today I rode an amazing bike ride in France. It is a hot clear sunny day in the Pyrenees. I started the morning from the cycling lodge where I am staying in Saint Savin. The owner of the lodge said his favorite ride in the area is the road up to Lac d'Estaing. That is saying quite a bit since we are located in a valley with the Tourmalet, Luz Ardiden, Cautarets, and Hautacam up to the right, and the Spandelles, Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque over to the left.

After a good breakfast at the lodge with the other guests, I gathered my map, food, water and camera and headed out the front door, where my climb began. The D13 and D103 are small scenic roads that climb gently to the lake. The scenery in this region of the Pyrenees is extreme. The mountains rise dramatically. The 4th image below is my view at the lake during my first of three snacks. Very nice.

I stared down a cow to get there - he blinked first. I rolled by the horses, rested and then headed out to climb over the Col de Borderes. This small Col is a steep switchback road that connects into the next valley over and the town of Arrens Marsous (D916), the gateway to the Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque. The roads are generally quiet and safe. After stopping for a cold drink in Arrens Marsous, sitting in the middle of town in the shade, I decided it was far too nice of a day to stop now.

Up the Col du Soulor I went. 

Just before the top of the Col du Soulor, I was passed by a gentleman who called out "Good Morning!" At the summit of the Col we arrived to find that the road to the Col d'Aubisque was closed. Apparently they are working on road repair in preparation for the Tour de France. So instead this kind gentleman, who grew up in the area but now worked in Switzerland, invited me to have a drink at the cafe at the top. A nice cold Perrier.

The top of any col in the Pyrenees is always a fun place to be. Cyclists come and go, packs of motorcyclists arrive, hikers rest after long walks in the sun, the sound of cow bells fill the air, and every so often a pesky sheep comes by for a visit. This one wanted the nice gentleman's cheese sandwich (and he was successful). 

I then descended the Col du Soulor into the town of Bun, and took the D13 back to Saint Savin to complete the loop ride. During my climb I kept thinking, "and this is only one of 4 huge passes in Stage 16 of the 2010 Tour de France?" Each one of the four passes (Col de Pyresourde, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aubisque) in Stage 16 are enormous climbs alone, but combined, I just can't believe they can race it in one day. God help them if it is hot like it was today. Or "allez bonne chance" (we go, good luck!) as the man at the top of the Soulor told me. 

This is the cycling lodge where I am staying, located just in front of the chapel. La Lanterne Rouge /VeloPeloton 55Euros a night for room, private bath, breakfast, and 3 course dinner with wine or beer. Run by a lovely couple from Ireland. The hillside in the background is the Hautacam. Dinner time at the lodge is great fun. I am enjoying hearing the stories from the day as we all scattered only to come back together again and talk cycling. 

I also wrote a previous post about the Five Peaks to be climbed in Stage 16 of the 2010 Tour de France "Five peaks in one day?"

*Apparently I am the only one that missed seeing Lance Armstrong today, all of the other guests at the lodge ran into him during his recon ride of Stage 17 for the TDF. Some saw him on the Tourmalet, some on the Col du Soulor, they had wonderfully entertaining stories to share about their day on a bike in the Pyrenees. What fun.  

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France is nice

I have arrived in France 
France looks nice from the air and feels nice on the ground. France is simply a nice place to travel and ride a bike. I was greeted today on my ride, by a number of cyclists. Cyclists in France acknowledge one another by nodding and moving their mouths to form a bonjour. Motorists give a wide berth and getting lost on a bike is much less nerve racking than getting lost in a car. All in all a good day. Even the dog at the next farm down didn't run into the lane to chase me down, and the farmer moving his tractor gave me a nice smile as I rode by his barn on my way back to the farm.

This morning, me and my bike were reconstructed in the midst of the beauty of the farm outside of Pau. I awoke to a beautiful clear day in the Pyrenees. I could see the Mountains down the Valley that included the Pic du Midi, the Col du Aubisque, and the Col du Soulor. The mountains were stacked behind one another growing larger and hazier as they receded. Then an hour later the haze lifted and it was a spectacular warm day.

My bike went together smoothly. I am always slightly freaked out about taking my bike out of the bike box and putting the headset and handlebars back together again. Do you remember the video of George Hincapie heading into the ditch, handlebars in hand, no longer attached, at the Paris Roubaix a few years ago? That image sort of affected me. It is important to build and put a bike back together correctly.

I spoke with a number of people today: the man at the Total gas station, the man at the Avis rental car return, the man at the Pau train station information, two friends of the caretaker of the farm who came by to check on their rooster, the women checking out my groceries, and finally I arrived to a full dinner table of cyclists at La Lanterne Rouge cycling lodge in Saint Savin, at the base of the Hautacam, for dinner. (this is the view to the Tourmalet)

It is quite the collection of cyclists here at the lodge. Three men from Denmark, 3 Brits, 3 Irish, 1 Aussie, 1 other American, and me. One of the three guys from Ireland explained that he wasn't that into cycling, "these two guys are". I said "oh my, and you went up the Aubisque today... did it hurt?" - laughter at the dinner table. Then I said, "this is like when your friends decide to go run with the bulls in Pamplona, and you go!" "I think you get to decide where you all go on your next vacation, what are you into, paragliding?" They are having a lot of fun together on their vacation.


Tips from the day: Always having a 1 Euro coin comes in handy for baggage cart at the airport, and to get a cart at the local market. And remembering to bring a grocery bag (bags are not given out at the super markets in France).


News for the day: My brother reported that Lance Armstrong is doing recon in the area, and sure enough the 3 guys from Denmark at the cycling lodge ran into him on the Port de Bales yesterday. Lance did the climb twice, plus two others. The men from Denmark said "we did it once, it twasn't easy, it twas monstrous!" I'll keep an eye out today, our best guess is Armstrong will be checking out the route from Luchon to Pau, and we are right in the middle of the route. Half the cyclists here are going SE toward the Tourmalet, the other half are headed West toward the Soulor & Aubisque. I'll let you know - what fun!

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I'm going to France!

The time has come to depart!

I am (almost) ready to travel to France. I have my communications almost sorted out, my accommodations set, my transportation ready and waiting. Of course it feels like I still have 100 things left to do, but that doesn't stop me from having a dinner party tonight, yes the night before I leave for 5 weeks. How joyously crazy is that?

Even though the weeks ahead are unknown outside of a framework of locations, I am so grateful to have the freedom to go. I am thankful to my family (who make it possible), house-sitter friend, and other friends who have encouraged me to go for it.

I look so forward to my journey. Why would I want to go anywhere else? Why would I want to ride a bike anywhere other than France? These questions are not really questions, but statements. I love riding in France. I like thinking about it in future present and past tense. I simply like the style of being in France.

I am also going to the Tour de France for a 6th time in 2010. If you are in France look for me. I will (not being wearing my new team kit which did not arrive in time, bummer) be wearing nondescript black and white clothing on a very flashy black and yellow Scott bike. I will be one of a zillion fans at Stage 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 20 of the 2010 Tour de France.

Here's my plan:

Stage 13: Cote de Saint Ferreol 7.5km from finish in Revel

Stage 14: Start in Revel

Stage 15: at the top of the last climb of Port de Bales (I'm staying in Luchon)

Stage 16: either on Col de Peyresourde, or on the Col d'Aspin

Stage 17: Finish on top of the Col du Tourmalet (staying near Argeles-Gazost)

Stage 18: Start in Sallies-de-Bearn

Stage 19: (traveling to Paris by plane)

Stage 20: in Paris on the Champs Élysées (my Birthday!)

The rest of the time I will be wandering about in the Pyrenees. I will be posting stories and images of my travels. I will be staying in Saint Savin, Gan, Arrens-Marsous, Biert, Crechetes, Guchan, St-Martin-le-Vieil, Saint Mamet, Beaucens, Paris, Toulouse - here I come!

And I will be seeing how fast and how slow I can ride up some of these climbs: Col d’Agnes, Col de Ares, Col d'Artigaux, Col d'Azet, Col de Buret, Col de la Core, Col des Marrous, Col de Mente, Col de Pailhères, Col de Port, Col de’Portet d Aspet, Col du Portillon, Col de Tramassel, Horquette d’Ancizan, Lac d'Estaing, Pla d’Adet, Plateau de Beille, Spandelles, Superbagneres. And a few repeats up Col du Tourmalet, Col d'Aspin, Col du Peyresourde, Col d'Ichere, Col de la Marie Blanc, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aubisque, Luz Ardiden, Hautacam. And perhaps by the time I return to the USA I will better remember when and why some of these climbs are Col du, Col de, or Col de la. Col d' - well that's any easy one.  

One of my favorite pictures of France, the road east of Lourdes heading to Bagneres-de-Bigorre. What an amazing experience to be on that road on a bike.

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How to pack a bike box for Travel

Here it is my Brother's How To Pack a Bike Box Instructions

If you are flying with a bike, or transporting a bike by car, bus, or train for a long journey, here are some tips on packing a road bike into a bike box for transport. Flying with a bike is so fun.
 
Instructions:

Checklist

• Shift front ring to middle ring, back cassette to 2^nd smallest cog.
• Remove saddle-bag and computer. Place in corner of bottom of box.
• Remove pedals and place in ziplock bag. Place in bottom of box and secure with duct tape, or carry with you in carry-on bag. (screw direction - right is right; left is wrong)
• Orient crank arms to be parallel with ground.
• Remove handlebars from stem.
• Remove stem from headset or rotate to the side. Tighten headset loosely to hold in place.
• Remove seat post. (be sure to mark the placement of your saddle height with tape)
• Remove wheels and place in bottom of box. (You may also place the wheels in wheel bags, with hub protectors, and wrap the rear cog-set with a rag). Place the back wheel in first with cassette up.
• Cover wheels with plastic hard divider and 1st foam sheet.
• Lay frame and handlebars on top of foam in the box.
• Place protective foam tubes over bike tubes, use tap or secure with cable ties as required. (These foam tubes are found in the plumbing section of the hardware store, and may be easily cut to size for the top tube, down tube, etc.).
• Tie hand brake lever closed with cable ties. Arrange handlebars parallel to top tube as shown.
• Remove rear derailleur, wrap in rag, and cable tie to right stays. Secure mounting screw. Wrap the chain in a rag.
• Place support between rear stays where wheel attaches (see image example).
• Strap bike to box using four straps.
• Place seat in the box, under bottom tube.
• Cover cranks with card board to protect.
• Place water bottles where space allows.
• The areas of the bike that are most vulnerable to damage during security checks are the cranks, rear stays, and handlebar/stem area. Pay special attention to securing these spots in place.
• Bring extra ties and extra duct tape for repacking your bike for the trip home.  Bring your pedal wrench or allen wrenches with you. Bring any tools that you used to take the bike apart.
• Place a piece of paper with your name and contact information in the box in case off loss.
• Attach cover
• Tie handling ropes around box at location of locks and cable tie rope to the latch loops on one side (for easier baggage handling of the box)
• It is recommended to carry your shoes and helmet in your carry on luggage.

Pictures: 

My brother's Specialized bike en route to France

Protect your hangers from being bent.

Strap it all in place.

Placement of the wheels in the box. I wrap a towel around the cogset and I use wheel bags.

My Scott bike having just arrived in France, this is my packing job. My wheels are in bags below this layer.

Tie but do not lock.