Showing posts with label Provence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Provence. Show all posts

20 July 2014

Provence

Uniquely French

Today's scenery in Stage 15 of the 2014 Tour de France brought us through the heart of tourist Provence. Visually striking from the air, the aerial views of pools and vacation homes, fans in shorts and sandals, plowed fields and lavender, stormy skies and noticeable wind - were evidence of what makes Provence uniquely French. And one of the most popular holiday destinations in the world.

I have only visited Provence five times (2001, 2003, 2007, 2010, 2012). I would have liked to have gone this year, if only to sit on the side of the road and watch the riders speed by. I would sit there with my family at a small table and chairs, wine, cheese and bread on the table, lavender as the scented backdrop, and enjoy the simple things in life. Entertained by the grueling effort of others.

I'm not sure why four of my five trips to Provence centered on riding a bike up and over things, but I look back and realize that first trip in 2001 might have been the most interesting. Not the stuff to brag about, but really cool to experience. The Roman amphitheater and Mason Carrée in Nimes, the morning market in Arles, VanGogh's trail of beauty and tragedy, big tourist sights and so many quaint villages, old hotels that are now 5 star hotels, four course prix fixe meals, leisurely patio breakfasts in the garden, and going inside if it rained or the mistrals howled.

Perhaps it is the cycle of cycling that I am experiencing in waxing poetic this morning about Provence. Over the years, it seems I have graduated through steps; expanding my knowledge and desire. I know a man who is doing the Etape du Tour (Pyrenees) today in France. He and his friends talk of reminding each other to eat breakfast and pee before the event race. How cute, I thought, I remember when my world centered around that sort of excited anticipation, but that was nine years ago.

Since that first trip to France in 2001, where I was inspired to try this road cycling thing, I have researched and bought three road bikes, gone to bike clinics, found training partners, had bike fits, joined a bike tour, measured my VO2 max, attended spin classes, got injured, mapped out countless routes, followed training plans, did countless event rides, joined teams, ate like a bird, bought decreasing jersey sizes, rode upon foreign lands, got injured again, started a bike blog, learned race photography, became press/photo, bought increasingly larger jersey sizes, continued to put my bike in the car and take it out someplace new, and ride .....

As the circle comes back around to complete its cycle, I find myself wanting to return to 2001 when I sat on the roadside and was inspired by others. Only this time, I'd like that nice petit déjeuner at a comfortable hotel with a blue water pool. I'd like a short morning bike ride before going to sit on that country road, where I would not take photographs but instead look into the face of each passing rider of the Tour de France peloton. And then I would sit down again to taste the chilled rose wine under the plane trees of Provence.



For those of you out on your early morning training rides this morning, who plan to watch the replay of Stage 15 tonight at home, here is a reading list of posts about travel and cycling in Provence.


REST DAY tomorrow, if I were the teams and riders, I would relax in beautiful Provence/Languedoc. I am not crazy about the city of Carcassonne, although La Cite ruins are interesting to roam around early morning.

Or for those into really nice bikes, read: Pro Pedals and Bikes (2014)

30 June 2014

My Top Twenty Climbs in France

We all have our favorites, these are mine

Since 2003, I have been fortunate to ride a bike frequently in France. I want you to know I actually wrote out five other posts in route to mapping out and writing this one simple post about my favorite climbs in France. You would think it easy, but any time I think of climbs, I think of scenery, I think of traveling to the climbs, I think of the Tour de France .. and I generally get very distracted.

Oh, I like so many things ...

So here it is in all it's simple glory - my favorite top twenty climbs (*top 10) in France: Link to google map of climb locations

Alpe d’Huez *
Col d'Agnes
Col des Aravis *
Col d’Aspin
Col d’Aubisque *
Col de la Columbiére *
Col du Galibier *
Col d'Ichère
Col d'Izoard
Col de Marie Blanque *
Col de Murs
Col de Peyresourde
Col d’Portillon
Col du Soulor *
Col de Tamié
Col de Télégraphe
Col du Tourmalet *
Hautacam
La Hourquette d’Ancizan *
Mont Ventoux *

My favorite, you ask? Well I just have this thing for the Col d'Aubisque to Cirque du Litor to Col du Solour route. The Tourmalet is a must ride. I also love Mont Ventoux in all it's boisterous glory. 

Map of my favorite climbs in France https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zF3Mdi_RS4EA.khPsCpthHhgk

ALPS

My favorite climbs in the Alps: Col de la Colimbiere, Col des Aravis, Col de Tamie, Alpe d'Huez, Col de Telegraphe, Col de Galibier, Col d'Izoard.


PROVENCE

My favorite climbs in Provence (granted I don't know much about Languedoc, which has many good reported rides and climbs): Col de Murs, Mont Ventoux


PYRENEES

My favorite climbs scattered across the Pyrenees are: Col de Agnes, Col du Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Hourquette d'Ancizan, Col d'Aspin, Col du Tourmalet, Hatuacam, Col du Soulor, Col d'Aubisque, Col de Marie Blanque, Col d'Ichere.


This year, of my favorite climbs, the Col d'Izoard, Col d'Portillon, Col de Peyresourde, Col du Tourmalet and Hautacam will be featured in the 2014 Tour de France.

My favorite areas to travel and ride a bike in France are the Pyrenees, Le Grand-Bornand/Haute-Savoie region of the Alps, and the general areas of Provence and department Vaucluse. I also enjoy riding the foothills of the Pyrenees Atlantique and Haute-Pyrenees. The Dordogne is a fabulous place to visit. Lyon, Marseille, and Toulouse are the preferred smaller airports to fly into with a bike in France.

You can see more of the climbs I have ridden in France on my About page, so many are good, but these are better. Now onto posting those other five posts I wrote on my way to finally mapping out my favorite climbs in France ......

12 February 2014

Photo for the Day - Gigondas

Nice town, good wine, lots of green


This morning with the continuing cold and ice in Colorado I was in the mood to look at green. At first I thought about the green of Peter Sagan ...
Peter Sagan, in green again.  Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer®

But instead I settled on Gigondas. Not only because I like saying the name of this small town (commune) in the Vaucluse region of south-western France (Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur), but because it is one of those places you imagine might exist in France and actually does.

Gigondas has nice roads to cycle on, nice streets to stroll along, nice cafe patios to lunch upon, and good wine to put within. Plus Mont Ventoux is in the back yard and that is one well worth journey up a mountain.

Today I could do with a good meal on a warm patio. Instead these photos will bring back fond memories. 

Photos of Gigondas:  All photos by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer® click to enlarge


 

Recommended loop route (to ride or drive) click to enlarge

Pass through the cities or small villages of: Vaison-la-Romain, Seguret, Sablet, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise, La Barroux, Malaucène, Vaison-la-Romain. That white capped hill to the right is Mont Ventoux.
Jace from In Situ Travel (bike tours) offers this alternative route between Vaison-la-Romain and Seguret/Gigondas. Jace wrote, "You're absolutely right, Gigondas is wonderful! And it's nice you included a route as well. Next time you're back there, check out this side road between Vaison La Romaine and Seguret. It's not the best pavement, but typically very quiet and has a nice little climb. It's also gets you off the main road for a little bit."

See Google Map:  http://goo.gl/maps/st0no

On to the Tour de France

And then after spending time in this lovely town in France, I went to see a stage finish of the Tour de France in Annonay, a simple working town. Aesthetically is was a real shocker and not exactly the green I had in mind, but it was fun because I was deep into France, I heard no English spoken and saw no American, Dutch, or Australian flags as I typically see on the big mountain stages. The drive along the Rhone River to get to and from the stage finish was particularly beautiful.

Part of the famed Caravan of the TDF.  Photo by Karen Rakestraw of Pedal Dancer®
Gigondas wine

You don't have to go to France to enjoy Gigondas wine (Châteauneuf's "little cousin", By Wine Spectator). You can find the wine at a good local wine shop. Or at Trader Joe's market, which will be opening it's first store in Colorado, just blocks away, in only two days. Yippee!

Read more about the area from a transplanted American couple who write of their travel and food adventures in the area (based in the nearby town of Sablet): Sablet House.blogspot

04 July 2013

Travel to Provence, France

So you are thinking of taking a trip to France?

What are the best villages & cities to visit in Provence

Provence, and the wider region Languedoc are a sort of mid-way point for cyclists riding in the Alps and Pyrenees. A cyclist can base themselves in several key cities in the Alps or Pyrenees and take in  many climbs from a central home base. But when it comes to Provence - you will want to travel around by car to best see the area.

Provence is where beauty and tourism, locals and visitors, cyclists and cars, sky and rolling terrain mix in one joint effort to assist the cycling tourist to enjoy oneself, and to rest and recover. Days of morning markets, picnics, wine, incredible vistas, smalls roads, fresh air, warm temperatures blend on a backdrop of Roman ruins.

There is a reason the Romans came to Provence and Languedoc - it is really nice here.

TRAVEL

I would recommend a nice break in between all that riding you will (or have done) in the Alps and Pyrenees and take a couple days to relax, refuel and enjoy this area of France. But where to visit? Leading travel guidebooks will take you to the most visited places and sites for tourists, but here I recommend our favorite villages. 

Mike (his nickname is "Straw") and his wife Suz visit Provence every year. I refer to them a lot because they really know a lot about being an American tourist in France. Also their travel style is just right, they are at that tipping point where good accommodation and location make a difference, but a smart traveler never wants to sacrifice local hospitality or culture, or waste money. Also Mike is a bike rider, Suz is an artful cook. They tend to spend 3-weeks in an area, stay at gites, B&Bs and hotels, they picnic, cook and eat in cafes and get out and explore every day.

Straw and Suz's favorite villages & cities - include these places on your itinerary:
  • Cassis
  • Bonnieux
  • Montpellier
  • Uzes
  • St Remy
  • Lourmarin
  • Maulacene
  • Crestet
  • Saignon
Alright, how many of these villages had you heard of previously? The bigger cities of Avignon and Orange have their tourist sites (refer to aforementioned guide books for a quick visit), but visiting the villages and cities listed above will make your trip to France special. Staying overnight is an even better idea.

Mike mentioned to avoid Carpentras (couldn't agree more, I have never driven through this city without getting lost), Cavaillon, and Tarascon. 

Where are these villages and cities located?  click image to enlarge map

* LINK to Map of Best Cities in Provence *
What to do in Provence
  • Enjoy a 4-course meal outside on a patio.
  • Try the local wine, sip an afternoon Pastis.
  • See the lavender, poppy and hay fields. Taste the fresh cherries.
  • Visit a morning market to buy picnic supplies, and gifts.
  • Have a picnic.
  • Take lots of photographs of the hillside villages.
  • Visit the Pont du Gard
  • Ride Mont Ventoux
  • Ride the local Luberon bike paths on anything with 2-wheels
Photo ©by Mike and Suz for Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
Photo ©by Karen at Pedal Dancer
I am not big on recommending specific restaurants or sites, believing it is much better to discover on your own, plus you never know what you will find of interest or when your bike ride will begin or end. Spontaneity is a luxury as a tourist and encouraged while in Provence - a time when STRAVA should be turned off, but GARMIN should definitely be kept on. Although you will notice the roads are so small even your Garmin GPS unit will get completely confused.

You can read more about the leading tourist sites in your favorite guide books, including these attractions: Palais des Papes in Avignon, the Theater Antique and Roman Wall in Orange, hillside village of Les Beaux, Van Gogh's room in St-Remy, lots of Roman ruins and bridges scattered across the area, many other options and the Gorges du Verdon.

Also the Rhone River flows into this area and the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and many other well known varietals are nearby. I like a nice chilled rose in the heat of summer. Wine and olives are an integral part of this region of France. So too is the cicada, a symbol of Provence.

Cicadas on tableclothes in a morning market in Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
wine regions of Provence
The mistrals

mis-tral : A dry cold northerly wind that blows in squalls toward the Mediterranean coast of southern France.

In evidence today during Stage 6 of the 2013 Tour de France on the stage from Cagnes-sur-Mer to Montpellier, these winds can blow fast and hard. Did you know the wind can rage as fast as 320 km/h (200 mph) on the summit of nearby Mont Venttoux?

It can blow for days,
will chill your bones
and can turn people insane.
I am talking about the Mistral,
a fierce wind ruling over Provence.

Read: more information about the Mistrals.

Mont Ventoux

If you plan to ride Mont Ventoux or travel to Provence, please read these other related posts by Pedal Dancer with more details and photos from the area
For recommendations on accommodations, please see the list on the Pedal Dancer Guide Page:  Recommendations and Resources
For more stories by Pedal Dancer please see:
FRANCE TRAVEL   |   FRANCE CYCLING   |   2013 TOUR DE FRANCE

26 June 2013

Most Popular Tourist Sites in France

Have you been to ?

The 2013 Tour de France will glimpse all 10 of the most visited tourist sites in France, a sure way to highlight and promote tourism in the country. France is after all the #1 tourist destination in the world! Tourism accounts for 6.5 % of France's GDP, with 80 million foreign tourists a year. Plus we all know the entire country goes on vacation themselves in July or August, helping French nationals to contribute more to tourism income than foreign visitors. Wow, they like their own country so much - they stick around on vacation!

The route of the 2013 Tour de France will not only keep Paul Sherwen and Phil Liggett busy with their tourist and geography lessons during race coverage, it will offer a great distraction to fans to get out and see some of the nearby marvels. One could actually see all ten top tourist sites, if they moved really fast.

Musée du Louvre in Paris.   ©Photo by Karen Rakestraw for Pedal Dancer®
Tour Eiffel in Paris.  ©Photo by Karen Rakestraw for Pedal Dancer®
Musée d'Orsay in Paris.   ©Photo by Ken Rakestraw for Pedal Dancer®
Arc de Triomphe in Paris.   ©Photo by Karen Rakestraw for Pedal Dancer®

Top-10 tourist attractions in France with most tourist visits last year: 
  1. Louvre Museum (8.5 million), Museum in Paris; Stage 21 finishes nearby on Champs-Élysées.
  2. Eiffel Tower (6.2 million), Structure in Paris; Stage 21 finishes nearby on Champs-Élysées.
  3. Palace of Versailles (6 million), Museum in Paris; Stage 21 begins in the gardens (the park is closed for cars on July 21st!)
  4. Centre Pompidou (3.6 million), Museum in Paris; Stage 21 finishes nearby on Champs-Élysées.
  5. Musée d'Orsay (2.9 million), Museum in Paris; Stage 21 finishes nearby on Champs-Élysées.
  6. Musée du quai Branly (1.3 million), Museum in Paris; Stage 21 finishes nearby on Champs-Élysées.
  7. Arc de Triomphe (1.2 million), Structure in Paris; Stage 21 will race AROUND the arch on the Champs-Élysées this year instead of in front of it as usual. 

  8. Mont Saint-Michel (1 million), a Tidal Island off the northwestern coast; Stage 11 Inidividual Time Trial will finish at Mont Saint-Michel.
  9. Notre-Dame de la Garde, Marseille (800,000), Church in Marseille; Stage 5 will finish in the city of Marseille.
  10. Château de Chambord (711,000), largest Château in the Loire Valley; Stage 12 and 13 will finish and start in Tours, a one-hour drive from Chambord.
Let's not forget some of the other great tourist sites on the route of the TDF this year:

Corisca with it's Calanques de Piana cliffs near Ajacio. Nice and it's Castle Hill and Musee National Marc Chagall. Or the city of Albi with it's landmark Cathedral Ste-Cecile and Toulouse Lautrec Museum. Oft visited Aix-en-Provence or Annecy, and the very cool cities of Vaison-la-Romaine, Montpellier and Lyon.

Trip Advisor ranks the Top-10 regions of France. This year the Tour de France will travel through 8 of the 10 regions missing Limousin and Lorraine:
  1. Provence
  2. Corsica
  3. Dordogne Valley (Limousin)
  4. Brittany
  5. Auvergne
  6. Pyrenees
  7. Alps
  8. Normandy
  9. French Riviera - Cot d'Azur
  10. Vosges (Lorraine)
Regions of France
Trip Advisor also tallied their readers favorite Top-10 destinations in France in 2013: 
  1. Paris
  2. Nice
  3. Cannes
  4. Lyon
  5. Saint-Tropez
  6. Chamonix
  7. Avignon
  8. Marseille
  9. Biarritz
  10. Saint-Malo

Tour de France Stages and Tourism

There are certain stages that are must see in regards to race outcome, but other stages that are worth tuning into if you are a traveler interested in scenery or tourist sites or simply trying to decide where you want to next visit in France.

Below, the "Tourist Stages" are in bold black, with the best "Bike Racing" stages described in red.

STAGE
DATESTART AND FINISH

1
Saturday, June 29thPorto-Vecchio > Bastia

2
Sunday, June 30thBastia > Ajaccio

3
Monday, July 1stAjaccio > Calvi - a must see stage!

4
Tuesday, July 2ndNice > Nice - Team Time Trial!


5
Wednesday, July 3rdCagnes-sur-Mer > Marseille

6
Thursday, July 4thAix-en-Provence > Montpellier

7
Friday, July 5thMontpellier > Albi

8
Saturday, July 6thCastres > Ax 3 Domaines - a must see stage!

9
Sunday, July 7thSaint-Girons > Bagnères-de-Bigorre - Pyrenees!

-
Monday, July 8thSaint-Nazaire - Loire-Atlantique

10
Tuesday, July 9thSaint-Gildas-des-Bois > Saint-Malo

11
Wednesday, July 10thAvranches > Mont-Saint-Michel - ITT & classic TDF!


12
Thursday, July 11thFougères > Tours

13
Friday, July 12thTours > Saint-Amand-Montrond

14
Saturday, July 13thSaint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule > Lyon

15
Sunday, July 14thGivors > Mont Ventoux - a must see stage!

-
Monday, July 15thVaucluse - (I love this area!)

16
Tuesday, July 16thVaison-la-Romaine > Gap

17
Wednesday, July 17thEmbrun > Chorges - second and last ITT

18
Thursday, July 18thGap > Alpe-d’Huez - a must see stage!

19
Friday, July 19thBourg-d’Oisans > Le Grand-Bornand - (beautiful!)

20
Saturday, July 20thAnnecy > Annecy - Semnoz

21
Sunday, July 21stVersailles > Paris Champs-Élysées - a must see stage!



There will be four mountain top finishes this year, and if you are a cycling tourist & big fan - these count as top tourist sites as well:

Stage 8
Saturday, July 6th up Ax 3 Domaines
Stage 15
Sunday, July 14thup Mont Ventoux
Stage 18
Thursday, July 18thup Alpe-d’Huez
Stage 20
Saturday, July 20thup Annecy - Semnoz

Not a bad place to hang out as a tourist - the summit of Mont Ventoux.  ©Photo by Mike Rakestraw for Pedal Dancer®

04 June 2013

Traveling to Mont Ventoux

Riding the Giant of Provence and being a tourist

Part II of II : Being a tourist near Mont Ventoux. This is the second part in a series of two about riding one of the best climbs in France - Mont Ventoux.

See Part I : Three Sides of Mont Ventoux (cycling Mont Ventoux)

Traveling to Mont Ventoux

What would you be doing if you went to Mont Ventoux? Ride a bike!! Okay what else? Well, you would be right next to the Rhone River, which means wine! You are basically in Provence (Luberon), which means morning markets, fresh food and very nice Bed and Breakfasts. You are a stones throw away from some of the most magnificent Roman ruins and historic landmarks located in the cities of Vaison la Romaine, Orange, Avignon, Arles, Marseille, and of course the magnificent Pont du Gard (big huge roman bridge). You are also near the charming smaller villages of Bonnieux, Rousillon, Crestet, Gigondas, and others that dot the countryside.

History time: "The Celtic-Ligurians were the folks the Romans had to conquer in order to get hold of Provence, after which they named it Provincia and thoughtfully constructed the many Roman ruins tourists now flock to see," read more: Provence: Romans vs Celts, By the New York Times.

Wine time:  There will be no drinking anything but local wine while playing tourist in this region. Which means avoid purchasing your wine at E.Leclerc, and instead buy from a local shop. Definitely try the fresh fruit from the market and the local (sometimes expensive) cheese. Bread - always buy from a boulangerie! (The Baguette). Before you know it you will return the the States wearing summer whites and carrying a straw basket to the market - a far cry from Lycra!

Wine drinking should commence as soon as possible after the summit of Mont Ventoux has been reached, the chamois have been removed, and a patio table has been commandeered.

You gotta climb the mountain first to be able to drink this bottle of wine.  ©Photo by Mike for Pedal Dancer®
Rhone River Valley map and grapes galore. Think more wine drinking, than wine tasting.
The Romans have been here. Pont Julien (Pont = Bridge) outside of the beautiful town of Bonnieux.  ©Photo by Suz for Pedal Dancer®
An old fountain

You have probably assessed by now that the area is excellent to visit as a cyclist if you have non-cyclists traveling with you, or have travelers who require nice accommodations (not always required for cyclists). Mont Ventoux should be climbed early morning to avoid extreme heat and high winds, which conveniently leaves your travel companions time to head to the morning markets or to sleep in. You will still have time for afternoon tourist activities, or find yourself resting by a nice B&B pool with a picnic, and more wine!

Bike paths meander throughout the Luberon for casual day rides. A list of bike hire places in France, although I believe equipment matters so always bring you helmet, shoes, pedals, and maybe even your saddle, with full bike measurements of your bike back home.

Recommendations for cyclists

What to do on or near the mountain after you climb Mont Ventoux
  • You'll want to start your climb early to avoid heat and winds.
  • Remain at the summit - to wait for you friends who are much slower climbers than you - no, to take pictures, meet other cyclists, and cheer on riders as they arrive. Allez allez is all you need to know. Also to see if anyone actually buys those petrified candies and cookies that have been on the summit for years.
  • Watch the men playing bocce ball in the town of Bedoin; enjoy a nice post-ride lunch in a cafe; stop in the local bike shop to buy your Mont Ventoux jersey or souvenir.
  • Have a cool drink or lunch on a restaurant patio in the town of Malaucene or watch the large screen TVs if you are there during the Tour de France. Visit the active bike shop Ventoux Bikes.
  • Stop for a drink at the Chalet Reynaud on the route from Bedoin (south side), or at the Cafe on the route from Malaucene (north side).
  • Don't tourist-multitask or overbook yourself in regards to this climb, ride it and enjoy the area.
  • Return again to climb all three sides.
I am pretty sure these same candies were here when I first climbed the mountain in 2003. ©Photo by Karen at Pedal Dancer®
Ventoux Bikes bike shop in Malaucene.  ©Photo by Mike for Pedal Dancer®
Where in typical French hospitality they offer a pump and wrench for visiting cyclists.  ©Photo by Mike for Pedal Dancer®
Recommendations for tourists

A special restaurant recommendation in the area:

Le Fleur Bleu - Mike and Suz ate there in recent days and said, "very good food, cool place, nice people, and house dogs. A special place." Located outside of the town of Crestet, north of Malaucene. http://www.lafleurbleue.fr/ (love the photos!)

Recommended hotels:

A fabulous place in Provence (near Rousillon), a place I enjoyed very much last year.
Domaine du Crestet (north of Malaucene), where Mike and Suz and friend Liz are staying currently.

You could look into this nice hotel which I have NOT visited: Hotel Crillon Le Brave in Crillon-le-Brave, France. Or other hotels that rank well (use Trip-Advisor) in nearby Vaison-la-Romaine, Bedoin, Crestet, Sablet, Sault, or Malaucene villages (Avoid going near Carpentras or Orange or near the big highway). The area is referred to as Vacluse (Provence). We usually stay in places that range from 60€ - 125€ a night. Many offer breakfast.
In Logis speak - "authentic charm means really basic." Look for a three chimney hotel with a good food rating, good location, and inexpensive (they exist). Bed & Breakfasts and Gites are not part of the Logis group of accommodations.
Always ask your host first if you may picnic on the patio or inside. Often they have wine they would appreciate you to buy from them. The best hosts will have glasses for you to use, but we usually travel with picnic supplies. And of course a wine opener!&Packing Tips for Cyclists

If you plan to stay and ride, renting a gite for a week for 2-8 persons can be less expensive and great way to settle in and cook a few meals at home (and enjoy the local wine without having to drive from a restaurant back home). Also a great way to enjoy what you have found in the local markets. Of course a leisurely 3-4 course lunch at a restaurant patio in France (after a ride) should not be missed.

I prefer breakfast at the hotel, a nice lunch out (a good value), and a picnic dinner. With a few nights of special dinners out, when I know the food will be good.

Domain du Crestet - nothing like a nice B&B where you can take a meal in if you want after a long day of being a tourist.  ©Photo by Suz for Pedal Dancer®
Recommended loop driving tour in the area: A day in the Vacluse and Rhone River Valley By Pedal Dancer.

Vaison-la-Romain, Seguret, Sablet, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise, La Barroux, Malaucène, Vaison-la-Romain.  Map created by Pedal Dancer®
A drive around the Dentelles, a rocky outcropping in the Vacluse.  ©Photo by Suz for Pedal Dancer®

When to go

If you go in spring you will see the poppy fields in bloom and enjoy fresh cherries in the market, expect mixed weather. In summer the lavender fields and sunflowers bloom, you'll have hot temperatures and crowds of tourists. The mistrals can blow in either season and winds can reach up to 200 mph on the slopes of Mont Ventoux. Did I already mention to start your climb early? Fall, of course, is always a nice time to travel, but there will be no Criterium Dauphine or Tour de France to see.

Poppy fields this week in France.  ©Photo by Suz for Pedal Dancer®
Provencal blue skies this week.  ©Photo by Suz for Pedal Dancer®

Did you know that you can ski on the north side of Mont Ventoux? Tourists pack the area south of Mont Ventoux (Provence), but don't forget about the west and north sides of Mont Ventoux, a little more quiet and an easy drive into the areas of Provence highlighted in all the guidebooks.

The north side of Mont Ventoux and the ski station in July 2012.  ©Photo by Karen at Pedal Dancer®
Ski and snowboard on Mont Ventoux

Location of Mont Ventoux

>Mont Ventoux sits on its own, rising above the vineyards and farm fields between the Luberon and the Vacluse areas in southeastern France. It is part of a thrust fault that is the Alps, but as the bird flies - the mountain is a long way away, at the edge of the alpide belt, from what most of us think of as the French Alps. I would hear about Mont Ventoux for years before I realized it is just a big rocky mountain sitting out on its own upon old Roman lands.

These maps are required studying for all cycling fans and anyone wishing to ride a bike in France. It took me years to know and have a good sense of the major cycling regions of France. I hope these maps help you follow the Tour de France, and most importantly, help you decide where you want to go ride a bike. I would describe this area as having one big ride, nice cruising rides, good wine and food, lots of tourist sites and needed down-time (if you want day after day hard climbing - go to the Pyrenees). click map to enlarge

Location of Mont Ventoux and the other major regions and climbs of the Tour de France.  Map created by Pedal Dancer®
Pyrenees, Mont Ventoux, Alps. Map created by Pedal Dancer®

Read PART I: Three Sides of Mont Ventoux
Also see: Recommended Ride: 100km around Mont Ventoux

To read more about the history of Mont Ventoux and see pictures of the Bedoin climb, read one of my earlier posts from 2010: I love Mont Ventoux. To read more about the Malaucene side and photos I took in 2012 read: So what's up from France? Or more travel and photos from following the TDF in 2011: Tour Travel - Tour de France, Stage 15, one from the Guess Where series I did for awhile: Guess Where? #4.

Recommended Reading: Ride Reports Climbing Mont Ventoux, By Gerry Patterson, Cycling Languedoc; Will from Cycling Challenge describes his ride here: Mont Ventoux – All Three Sides, By Cycling Challenge. More ride reports at Conquering the Beast, By the Wall Street Journal; Cycling Provence: Le Mont-Ventoux and Gorges de la Nesque, By Steephill.TV, and Rest Day, Up Mont Ventoux, by CyclingTips. Also for tourists please search through the blog Sablet House for more specific restaurant and tourist recommendations.

Related Pedal Dancer posts: Lots more pictures and previous stories I love Mont VentouxSo what's up from France?,  Tour Travel - Tour de France, Stage 15.