17 July 2010

I finally get Girona

I really like Spain

It might be that I grew up in California (I feel at home around the language and tiled roofs) or it might be that it is just plain good, but I like Spain. And I like the language. I finally understand why Girona draws professional cyclists as a place to live. It is the lifestyle off the bike. If I was a 20 or 30 year old cyclist and I was paid to ride, I would much rather live in Girona, Spain than in Aspen, Colorado (and I live in Colorado!), or in Austin, Texas.

When I first arrived in this city I imagined it would have been more picturesque. I drove to the Cuitat center hoping to find my hotel, that I had booked only 5 hours earlier (sitting in a peage reststop), and was thrilled that there where signs leading me straight to the hotel. Getting into the city was easy enough but it didn't give the perfect first impression.  I needed to wait, to let the city unfold and present itself.

I did go out last night at 10:00pm and discovered just around the corner was the Placa Independencia (plaza). It was full of cafes and people and life. I strolled the streets, thrilled to find 12 gelato places within blocks of each other. This morning I sat in the square and enjoyed a nice slow cappuccino and read a novel that I had started. It was simply wonderful.

I saw mountain bikers and road cyclists pass by my table at the cafe where I sat. These are real cyclists. Real bikes and real bike bodies and real team kits. I later saw a Team Jelly Belly guy standing on the street with all his luggage, and some other Live Armstrong band wearing cyclists. Other than that, this is a real city with tourists and locals. I like this place a lot. I am surprised. I believe the draw could indeed be the rolling hills and mountains nearby, with the sea only kilometers away, but more likely the real draw is living here in Girona.

This is a very lively town, with lots of shops, lots of cafes, and lots happening. It is a University town with an interesting old town section and modern apartments. At first I couldn't quite imagine cycling out of this town, but what matters is how you live when you cycle back into town.

Here in Girona, they sleep late, they are active between 9:00am-1:30om, they eat from 1:30-3:30 and rest. They work again from 4-7, and eat at 9 or 10 and come out in masses to visit with friends. It is a perfect timeline for a professional cyclist. I finally feel like I am on vacation. I like it here. This is not the kind of town to arrive into with an itinerary. I enjoyed a nice lengthy lunch with wine (best melon & prosciutto I have ever had), finally not worrying about having to ride or drive. I stroll and walk and wander happily with no intended course in mind. Although the Tour de France looms nearby and I am trying hard to remind myself that I love the Tour, this could be hard to give up - they have gelato on every block!

The Tour de France is currently passing through the area where I was 2 days ago. The fields of sunflowers were spectacular. No wonder Vincent Van Gogh was so overwhelmed with them upon his arrival from Holland. I was a bit creeped out driving through the roads lined with plane trees again. These trees are killers. They are basically speed control in the countryside. They look nice, add charm, are quintessential France, but there are also black cut out human silhouette markers along the roadside marking where fatalities have occurred, it is a bit creepy.

The plane trees of France are actually Sycamore trees. I can't drive through the plane trees without wondering WHO planted all these trees and why is there a need to keep autos cool? Well obviously they were planted well before the cars came. Just as Napoleon was responsible for many of the roads in France, he was also responsible for planting many of the plane trees that line the roads in southern France. The purpose was to keep his troops cool while passing through. The trees grow rapidly and need little water.

I have a friend Megan, who is currently on one of those massive company tours that chase the Tour de France and after reading her stories of standing around in hours in lycra in the mayhem, I am scared to jump back into the thick of things. I am feeling so spoiled. Yet, I love professional cycling, so I suppose I should jump back into it. However, I have been more than happy enjoying this time off in the interim.

Photos

The Placa Independencia in Girona, Spain, where I sat this morning with a cappuccino and read a novel (in the shade). This plaza sits maybe 400 people in the evenings:
The old city (Cuitat) section of Girona. **If you can find this place during the day, go back at night, they place tables outside with candles and lights, it is super romantic and relaxed:
The hills outside of Girona, and the area around the Cathedral:

There are nice pedestrian bridges over the river from the plaza to more small shops and cafes, the art museum and cathedral. 
 I am not quite sure how to capture on film the air conditioning in my hotel, but that is worth sharing as well. I am looking forward to another evening of strolling this town at night, drinking wine, eating tapas, and enjoying more gelato!
Tomorrow - back to France, darn. Maybe it was a good thing I wasn't there today, Vinokurov won. I am not a Vino fan. I am a Andy Schleck fan.

A New York Times article about why pro cyclists live in Girona, Spain: Finding Nirvana on Two Wheels.  Another travelogue by Pezcycling - Travel: My Girona Holiday 

16 July 2010

My google blog page is now in Spanish!

I am in Girona, Spain

Right when I got used to logging in and using google in French, my blog now opens in Spanish. My google search results are now in Spanish. I looked at the keyboard, tired from a day on the road, and thought,"what language is this?" Oh I'm in Spain, that is right!

I am at the Hotel Cuitat de Girona Spain. I got scared so bad from a bad accommodation choice outside of Revel that I fled to a 4* hotel in Spain. A total and complete change to my itineray (which I have been following less and less of lately). I had planned to set myself up to be poised and set for the Tour de France to arrive tomorrow into Revel, but after arriving at my intended B&B, I promptly left. After my last bad stay, I was not doing it again, this time I left. It was 7:30pm!

This was the second time while visiting France that I have called my brother in Laguna Beach, California to report, "I need a hotel, tonight".

The last time was in 2003. That was the year I was driving down from Provence on my way to Lourdes and my brother found me a great hotel in Perpignon. Last night he successfully located a hip little place on the outskirts of Carcassonne. I couldn't believe I found the place, arriving at 9:30pm, and of course they could still serve me dinner, and of course red wine out on the terrace with and a brownie (which was pronounced as broony, but I figured it out) would be perfect.

That was a close one. The change of plans also left 2 days open and I couldn't decide where to go. Provence or Dordogne? A strange thing has happened; I have green hill fever. It is like cabin fever, where I just need to be somewhere other than in the middle of green hills. So yesterday I took off for Albi. I toured the Toulouse-Lautrec Museum, walked around the real city, and had 2 scoops of gelato. This morning I woke early and entered La Cite of Carcassonne as the shop-owners were opening and setting up. No one was around, I took pictures galore (with no tourists in the shots!). I don't care what Rick Steve's says, Carcassonne is not a nice city to hang around for long. The lower city is ugly and crowded. I enjoyed the architecture of the upper city (La Cite) - at 9:00am.

I took off on the big peage heading to Spain. I felt like a local stopping at the rest-stop, using the wi-fi to book a hotel, buying coffee and an ice cream bar. I stopped off to see the ruins of Queribas and Peyrepertuse on the way. Between the 11th and 16th centuries these castles and fortresses saw war after war as the area was claimed and reclaimed in the wars between France and Spain, and France and France. The monuments sit high atop the rocky mountains looking across to the Mediterranean. It is thought that the holy grail was hidden in Queribas.

Girona is much bigger than I thought, it is modern and it is hot here! Right now I am in the air-conditioned hotel room listening to Brad Paisley music (that was my choice, he speaks my language) and drinking a bottle of Champagne I bought in the wine country I drove through today west of Perpignon. I am trying to remember my 7th grade Spanish now that I am in Spain. I was hoping Brad Paisley could help me with the transition from French to Spanish. If he doesn't do it, the Champagne should.

Because I parked my car in a garage so tiny I may never get it out, I plan to do the Spanish thing and stroll the streets tonight, and look for dinner beginning at 10:00pm. Which reminds me, at my last B&B in Guchan, we spent two and a half hours in the evening at the dinner table (all in French!). The French and German guests asked me if Americans really eat ham, eggs and big pancakes for breakfast. Also when the hostess asked the guests if they could place Colorado on the map in the USA - none of them could. Not one knew where Colorado was located in the United States. "Next to California", they asked. I am no longer going with the ignorant American label. We are all in this together.

Images from the past day(s):

Leaving the B&B in Guchan
Morning Snack (this was so good!)
Albi
Museum
 Cafe
Miles and miles of sunflowers, on the drive south of Castres
Thank goodness for this funky hotel. (I almost slept in the flower field above).
Carcassonne
Queribus
Peyrepertuse
Looking across from Peyrepertuse to Queribus

14 July 2010

Pla d'Adet in 2005 and 2010

The Pla d'Adet is a tough tough climb
I think the difficulty of the Pla d'Adet rates up there with the Col du Tourmalet and Col de Marie Blanque. I have always been a George Hincapie fan, but now I think he is super-human. I was on the Pla d'Adet with my brother an sister-in-law to witness Hincapie's win in the 2005 Tour de France, it was amazing then. Today five years later (and five years older) I decided to ride it myself. 
It was hard. Any climb that ascends on a straight road carved into the hillside is hard. Give me a switchback anytime over a semi-straight steep road. It didn't help that is was beyond hot today. I drank 2 bottles of water on the climb up, another on the descent, and one more in the town at the bottom. I then pulled my bike over next to the river, and walked into the river. I'm not kidding. I saw it, and in I went. 
I by now have climbed most of the climbs I had intended to climb in the Pyrenees. I have decided I am going to create a new rating of all these climbs in the Pyrenees and rate them with a Horse Fly rating of 1 to 5 (forget HC,1,2,3,4). I am also going to rate these small towns according to size, with a car symbol rating them by fat truck to itsy-bitsy you really think you can drive through there. I am becoming more paranoid about driving in these tiny towns and over the cols. Give me a peage or a big city please!
In week one I arrived appreciating the beautiful butterflies and all God's creatures great and small. By week four I am swatting at anything that moves. Flys, butterflies, cows, donkeys, anything. "Out of my way, I am climbing to the top of this Col at 4mph (or, maybe, slower) and nothing will stop me!" Which reminds me, I actually saw a herd of donkeys yesterday. I didn't know donkeys could be herded. Although the Shepherds were screaming at them as if they too were doubting whether donkeys could be herded.
Some images from the day:
Looking across the valley from above Guchan at the climb. The climb is to the right, and the top of Pla d'Adet is at the top middle.
On the climb
Looking over at the Pla d'Adet from the Col d'Azet. This is the steep semi-straight start. 
I would much rather stand road side and watch the pros ride this climb than do it again, it was a tough hot day in the saddle. But the cold river was fantastic!

Today is Bastille Day in France! July 14th. 

*post post: my bike and the river

Images from the Tour de France 2005 on Pla d'Adet: (all photos by PedalDancer.com)
The finish area of Pla d'Adet
TDF Fans on the Pla d'Adet in 2005
Christian Van deVelde 2005 TDF Pla d'Adet
Cadel Evans 2005 Tour de France on Pla d'Adet

The French know hospitality

But many think cycling is a bit crazy
It seems to me that the French are great at hospitality and tolerance. Yet many commonly respond to any tale of cycling with "ooh, tres difficile, ya oui?"

I think they tolerate us cyclists, as they do all the other visitors to their beautiful country, but they don't seem to want to go out and do it themselves, unless they are a cyclist. They also say they are scared to drive around us. I explain I am more afraid of driving around a cyclist in France, than having a car drive around me on a bike. Worse than the cyclists and motorcyclists and crazy drivers from Germany are the camper vans that overtake the routes of the Tour de France. I now understand the camper vans come down from the north fully supplied and do not spend much money in the local towns, and block the roads and stay for days.

The French are absolutely excellent at hospitality. I may tease about their limited hours, or it taking 45 minutes to have a quick espresso in a cafe, because they are assuming I actually want to sit and relax (or waiting for someone else to sit and relax with). But I am an American, I refuel and go. This has taken some getting used to for me.

I was off the grid for awhile as I traveled from Ariege (near St Girons) into the Barouse Valley of the Haute-Garonne (near Barbazon). I had a horrendous stay at VeloPyrenees in Crechetes (don't go there). They are quite intolerant, the absolute opposite of typical French hosts. They also neglected to tell their guests they had no phone reception, no wi-fi and no TV (which was not so fun for the Dutch guest who arrived on World Cup final night!). It is difficult to explain, and I understand that sometimes we all just happen upon bad places to stay while traveling, but I never even came close to feeling comfortable at that place.

I am now at a wonderful place called Chez Annie et Loic in Guchan, France. All the guests feel very comfortable here, and gather out in the garden and around the big table inside for meals. It has a great feel. The Chambre d'Hote is located between Arreau and St-Lary-Soulan. This valley is a bit touristy, but at least touristy areas have life to the towns. Which I think feels good as a cyclist. For me, it is more fun to climb a big mountain in quiet and arrive into a lively town.
In the past days I have ridden the Col de la Core and the Col de Portet d'Aspet. I visited the Fabio Casartelli memorial on the descent of the Portet d'Aspet before the Col des Ares. The next day I rode into Spain over the Col du Portillon and a few other roads around Bagneres-de-Luchon. Other than that, I have been busy trying to figure out what to buy at the super markets, trying to find gas and cash, hand washing my kits, really appreciating my car GPS system, and watching the Tour de France in a few cafes. I seem to arrive at the cafe in time to see Lance Armstrong again coming from behind, but can't understand why he is always coming from behind. The French TV labels the situation as the "Armstrong Peloton" and leaves it at that.

I am now in Guchan at the foot of the Col d'Aspin, Col d'Azet, Le Pla d'Adet, Col de Peyresourde, and Cap-de-Long (lake & hiking area). Feeling happy to be back in the valley where I was two years ago with my brother and friend Dash.
Some images from the past days:
Looking down on the town of Seix from the Col de la Core (the route over the Col de Port, Col de la Core, Col de Portet d'Aspet, Col d'Ares is good. The other smaller roads around the Ariege are pressed gravel and VERY rough. There are some nice active towns with cafes along this route of Cols):
Typical Ariege/Haute-Garonne town (personally I think there was not much in the Pamiers, Foix, St Girons areas. The town of Ax-les-Thermes will be a hopping place on the day of the Tour de France in 2010, but it is not a super valley to ride in. The valleys with big national highways can be a problem for cyclists, the towns are a bit shabby, lots of hippies, and the roads rough. But it is very green):

One of the reasons why I'm not loosing much weight, but building muscle:
Me on the Col du Portillon (outside of Bagneres-de-Luchon), same jersey, different mountain (I do have 3 other jerseys with me). I liked this ride (not too many horse flys):
This is the valley with Bagneres-de-Luchon at the base. The climb of the Col de Peyresourde begins in the middle/right, the Col de Portillon begins on the middle/left side, Superbagneres is the hillside straight ahead. Bagneres-de-Luchon is like an Aspen, Colorado of the Pyrenees. You'll see mountain bikers, downhill bikers, road bikers, hikers, spa goers, and people dressed all-fancy. It is a town of shops, cafes and 1*-star hotels next to 4*-hotels. This town will host the Tour de France finish of Stage 15 and the start of Stage 16 in 2010:
I finally had a crepe at the famous cafe at the top of the Peyresourde. The women at the cafe is so nice, asking everyone, "where are you from?", and they didn't even make me complete the wooden puzzle (a tradition) before serving me a crepe. It was a fun place to stop.

Quote of the Day - Thomas Voeckler & Andy Schleck

In adversity there is always a positive
Thomas Voekcler said that the other day. When asked if Cavendish is too aggressive, Voeckler replied, "I'm not a sprinter so I don't pay too much attention to him. He's changed a bit, he's added water to his wine. He's less arrogant now".
Yesterday another great quote:
Andy Schleck on his tactics on the Col de la Madeleine said, "If I'd attacked one more time I'd have dropped myself."

13 July 2010

Image of the Day: Casartelli Memorial

Picture of the day: Fabio Casartelli Memorial on Col de Portet d'Aspet
Fabio Casartelli died in Stage #15 of the 1995 Tour de France. In 2010, Stage #15 of the Tour de France will pass his memorial. The Fabio Casartelli memorial is on the descent of the Col de Portet d'Aspet (not the Col de Portet, which is a different climb).
I passed this memorial the other day. It was very moving as I descended the road and came upon the memorial along the side of the road. The coverage on TV does not give the true feel for how steep and technical this road truly is. It is dangerous.


Magnificent day in the Haute-Pyrenees

Today was(is) a great day in France

Stage 9 of the Tour de France was really good to watch today, I am a fan of Andy Schleck. Again there were more changes in the GC order and some surprises (poor Cadel Evans - it looked like his loss of the yellow jersey today hurt in both mind and body). Plus any day I see Paddy Sweeney on the road in the Pyrenees is a good day! 

My day started with homemade yogurt at the very nice charme Chambre d'Hote Chez Annie et Loic where I am staying in Guchan. I then headed out the front door, on my bike, in the cool morning mist. A few km down the road I began the climb up the Hourquettes d'Ancizan. The Hourquettes is a small feeder road that adjoins the Col d'Aspin, I had heard about the climb over the years and never managed to do it until today. It was well worth the wait. Combined with a loop ride up and down the Col d'Apsin, this is now one of my favorite climbs in France (third to Mount Ventoux, and the combo of Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque).

It was a great day on the bike. Two very nice fit Belgian men came upon me on the climb and decided they would pace me to the top. I sat on their wheel and felt perfectly cared for. We all shouted out in celebration at the summit. On top I again saw a nice French man who had passed me earlier in the climb. We had chatted for a bit because we had the same bike (a Scott CR1). I waved to him at the top and as he passed me again on the descent, he came by and exclaimed loudly, "I love you! You are very very nice". I burst out in laughter trying to steady my bike. The Horquettes are surprisingly beautiful, definitely one of my new favorite places. 

As the road joined onto the West side of the Col d'Aspin, I happened upon a small collection of cafes, ready for a coke, I pulled over. I heard a clear, "Karen!", I looked over to see Paddy Sweeney from VeloPeloton in Saint Savin where I stayed 2 weeks ago (don't get this place confused with VeloPyrenees. VeloPeloton.com = great, VeloPyrenees.com = terrible). I was so happy to see Paddy again. He is certainly a comfort to be around and seems to turn up in the best places. 

I sat with Paddy and some of his guests on the Raid Pyrenees tour he was leading (pictures from the Raid). In perfect weather I felt no need to rush on. After a good rest, the group headed toward the east side of the Tourmalet and I headed up the west side of the Col d'Aspin. At the top of the Col I had a flat tire (my first of the trip). Again a very nice Belgium man helped me with my tire and chatted. He said that this is the way of cyclists; that we help each other. The descent off the East side of the Col d'Aspin is fantastic (although I wish I could have gone at full speed, but without knowing the real pressure of my tires, I took it easy).
Horquettes Ancizan to Col d Aspin loop bike ride
Ancizan to Col d Aspin to Arreau - a perfect loop ride

Location of the ride in the French Pyrenees

I returned to the Chambre, prepared a lunch, and happily watched the Tour de France online. It was a great race today. 

Some pictures from the day:
Looking down from the Hourquettes to the town of Guchan where I am currently staying (middle left of the photo). St-Lary-Soulan is down valley. Pla d'Adet (think George Hincapie's big TDF win in 2005) is up to the right. Loudenvielle and Col d'Azet is over to the left. 


One (1of 3) of the nice men from Belgium descending the Hourquettes d'Ancizan on the way to the Col d'Aspin:
A nice hidden gem of a road (the locals want to keep this a secret from the TDF):

I should have taken a picture of Paddy and his tour crew. I also should have taken a picture of me covered in road dirt and grease after changing my innertube. Not the cleanest tire repair job I've ever done, but memorable. 

So far I have really enjoyed the Irish, Dutch, and Belgians I have met, plus every French person always says Bonjour! I have only met one other American cyclist during my 3 week span in France. One of the Belgian men asked me today, "Do the Americans come here to ride?", "no, they stay home," I said. Then we laughed. I feel really fortunate to be here.
[I will add a post later tonight about my last 3 days, since I was off the grid with very limited internet for awhile. And also had a not so good day yesterday. At least today made up for the last few days.]

*post post note: here are some pictures from the VeloPeloton.com Raid Pyrenees Tour