16 February 2012

Guess Where? #6

Where have we pedaled to now

Another week of adventure and more desktop traveling to France. Can you guess the locations of these 3 sites?

Image #1

©Photo by PedalDancer/DRR

Image #2

©Photo by PedalDancer

Image #3

©Photo by PedalDancer

Answers

Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port ("Saint John at the foot of the mountain pass" in French).

Located in Pyrénées-Atlantiques department in south-western France, Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is one of the major towns in the French Basque area of the Pyrenees. Once razed by Richard the Lionheart, the town was rebuilt in the same spot on the famed route of pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela over the Roncevaux Pass. Only 6km from the border of Spain, Basque is still spoken on both sides of the border. The town is situated along the river Nive and is wonderfully picturesque with tiled roofs, rust or brown colored shutters, buildings constructed of pink and grey schist, and cobbled streets typical of the area.

I had read that Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port was a growing center of cycling and so we made a point, on a rest day, to travel to visit the town in 2008. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is the old capital of the traditional Basque province of Lower Navarre, and if you have not yet tried a Navarre chilled rosé wine, please do so. Vineyards are increasing in the area, land prices are rising, and the area in a growing trend in popularity. The region reminds me of areas of Tuscany, Italy, and the central coast of California. It is neat and tidy with plentiful cafes and rolling green scenery. Mondays are market days and Sheeps cheese is a delicious local specialty.

River Nive through Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port ©Photo by PedalDancer/DRR

Landscape of Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port ©Photo by PedalDancer/DRR

Port to Spain ©Photo by PedalDancer/DRR

Gothic church, Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont ©Photo by PedalDancer/DRR

Signs in the area are in both French and Basque

Basque flag

Pic du Midi de Bigorre

It took me until my forth trip to the Pyrenees to understand that there was more than one Pic du Midi along the mountain range of the French Pyrenees. The most well known is Pic du Midi de Bigorre the grand peak above the Col du Tourmalet. The peak (pic) supports the highest observatory in France (Observatoire du Pic du Midi de Bigorre) initially constructed in 1878! NASA placed a large telescope in the building in 1963 in preparation for the Apollo missions to the moon. The observatory now houses a number of instruments and telescopes and has made numerous major discoveries. The road (on the west side) to the top begins just to the left of the souvenir shop on Col du Tourmalet. The road is rocky and rough and not always passable due to snow pack.

Continue past the souvenir shop on Col du Tourmalet ©Photo by PedalDancer

Hike to Pic du Midi de Bigorre ©Photo by PedalDancerr

The rocky road down from Pic du Midi de Bigorre in June ©Photo by PedalDancer

On the other side of this road (seen above) down the east side of the Col du Tourmalet lies the town of La Mongie, from this town you may take a steep cable car ride up to the observatory. This video will give you an idea of the massive area around the Col du Tourmalet, and perhaps why this climb is so magical on a small bicycle. Video: Pic du Midi de Bigorre - Cable Car Ride - All the way to the top!

There is another beautiful mountain peak that is a noticeable landmark on the mountain scape of the Pyrenees named Pic du Midi d'Ossau. This peak is slightly west of the other Pic du Midi with wonderful hiking trails and lakes. I hiked near the base of the peak in 2005, horses and cows roamed among green pastures and lakes, and the sound of cowbells filled the air. It was a rocky steep hike up the hillsides but a very enjoyable hike to Lac de Bious-Artigues. Take the D934 south of Pau and keep going (past the turn left up the D918 to the Col d'Aubisque) until you reach the town of Gabas, park and start hiking.

lake near Pic du Midi d'Ossau ©Photo by PedalDancer

Pic du Midi hiking ©Photo by PedalDancer

Pic du Midi d' Ossau from the Ossau Valley south of Pau ©Photo by PedalDancer

Flamme Rouge (Red Kite)

The red kite is the pennant marking the final kilometer of a bike race. The site of the flag means the race is almost over and the winner about to be determined. The banner inspires the phrase red kite prayer, supposedly naming the gesture of bowing the head as riders pass under the flag, digging deep in their last 1 kilometer of hard effort. I need to start paying better attention because I don't think I've ever noticed a rider actually doing this, but the popular blog Red Kite Prayer, inspired by the name, claims it to be a true tradition. I do know every time I am watching a break away or lone rider in the lead, and the rider passes under that red kite, I find myself cheering "come on you can make it, go!" The red kite is a long tradition in the Tour de France but is also used in other international races. The flamme rouge remains a very happy site for cyclists.

Red Kite at the finish line of the Tour de France ©Photo by PedalDancer

Red Kite being set up at the Criterium du Dauphine ©Photo by PedalDancer

Where we traveled to this week: click map to enlarge

A. Pic du Midi de Bigorre; B. Pic du Midi d'Ossau; C. Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

View the other Guess Where series:

Guess Where? #5

Guess Where? #4

Guess Where? #3

Guess Where? #2

Guess Where? #1

Picture of the Day: climbs by gear

If it were only this easy

No matter what mountain I am climbing, I always seem to be on Ventoux or Tourmalet, and looking for that one last gear!

from bicyclestore.tumblr.com

14 February 2012

Love Friends and Bikes

Happy Valentine's Day

I'm taking a moment to appreciate a day focused on Love. And on how the love of anyone and anything seems to multiply and grow turning into unexpected joys. Give a little - get a lot.

My niece Kristina and I have now made our plans to meet up first in Florence, Italy, and then travel back to Belgium together for the 2012 Paris-Roubaix in April. We are both so excited and will of course be photographing and writing about our adventures as fans at the race. I have made all of our plans to France for the 2012 Tour de France in July, all that remains is some hard training. Tonight I'm having dinner and a Nuggets basketball game with Dash, my old friend I traveled to France with years ago and another friend, it should be fun to talk about past present and future with two friends who enjoy humor, travel, bikes and big mountains.

Meanwhile Paddy Sweeney has saved me a room at his cycling lodge in the Pyrenees in July, and I am looking forward to seeing his wife Olive and their son Sean again. Two other friends, Courtenay and Tom, whom I met at the 2011 USA Pro Challenge, will also be returning to France for the 2012 Tour de France, there is a good chance we'll meet up on the Col de Peyresourde for one of the stages. I also look forward to meeting Peter Thomson and his lucky clan of cyclists with Thomson Bike Tours during one of his tours to the Tour de France.

I wish my brother Michael would join us in France but he is so busy traveling (Africa, China, Japan) it is hard for him to squeeze in another trip to ride. I am looking forward to meeting up with Mike N. from Phoenix again this year at the USA Pro Cycling Challenge in Colorado, (I met Mike at the 2011 USA Pro Challenge), we already have plans to stay at his friend Brian's house in Telluride during this years race, before making our way to camp overnight on Independence Pass.

Mike writes every so often to make me laugh and tell me how nice the weather is down in Arizona and how they are in their prime bike racing season this time of year. His writing seems to correspond with our biggest winter snow storms. It always makes me want to load up my car and head south to the warm sunshine. Bicycling.com recently wrote a story about cycling in the Arizona area: A Desert Oasis: Phoenix, AZ. A nice thing to think about when it is a chilly 38°F outside here in Colorado.

The other week Mike N. wrote to tell me that Chad Beyer, who grew up in Tucson, Arizona, and rode for Team BMC last year, was busy winning local races with his new Competitive Cyclist racing team. Along with Laura Somak, another fan who attended the USA Pro Challenge in Colorado last year with Mike, and competed in the same bike event as Beyer did that day. Here is Laura winning her Cat 3/4 womens race during the recent Bike Haus Crit.

Laura Somak, a cycling fan, winning races in Arizona

I also have an interview to write up with Peter Thomson of Thomson Bike Tours, we had a great conversation recently and I look forward to sharing with you some of his well earned insight about cycling in Europe. There is always more to look forward to and more to learn in this great sport of cycling.

Happy Valentines Day to everyone, I hope you enjoy your day with those you love. Or if they are far from you - you could opt for sending a nice greeting card - bicycle themed of course.

“To love someone deeply gives you strength. Being loved by someone deeply gives you courage.”

09 February 2012

Guess Where? #5

Where have we pedaled to now?

Time to once again take a journey and see if you can guess where these three landmarks are located, ready ....

Image #1

©Photo by PedalDancer.com

Image #2

©Photo by PedalDancer.com/Kenny Rakestraw

Image #3

©Photo by PedalDancer.com

Answers

#1 The Giant of the Tourmalet sculpture (Montée du Géant du Tourmalet)

This enormous silver sculpture sits atop a stone wall on the summit of the Col du Tourmalet. No sooner do you reach the top of the Tourmalet, then the descent quickly begins off the other side, but here, in this narrow ridge of a mountain pass sits this very recognizable landmark welcoming cyclists and tourists. The statue was built in 1999 to honor the first leg of the Tour de France in the Pyreness, and was dedicated to the first winner, Octave Lapize.

The statue used to, for years (please read comments by VeloPeloton), rest for the winter in the garden outside the Laurent Fignon Cycling Center (now closed), in Gerde near the town of Bagnéres de Bigorre, down valley from the Col du Tourmalet (but now rests in Tarbes, 50 km away, according to VeloPeloton). The first Saturday of June the statue re-emerges from it's winter hibernation and is ceremoniously accompanied by a legion of nearly 1000 cyclists back to it's glorious place on the peak. On it's journey back to the top, the statue and participants make stops in the towns along the route including Sainte-Marie de Campan, Gripp, Caderolles, and La Mongie. Locals mark the procession with events and celebrate with local foods of black Bigorre pork, AOC Madiran wine, Tarb beans, local cheeses and more. I think it would be exciting to join in the fun of accompanying the statue back to the top of the Col du Tourmalet, 2012 will mark the 13ème édition de la Montée du Géant du Tourmalet.

The Tourmalet is the most frequented climb in the Tour de France. Read a related post by VeloPeloton Montée du Géant du Tourmalet and Laurent Fignon, Salut au Champion! or more Pedal Dancer posts: Pedal Dancer: Today I saw the Tourmalet bring a man to tears or Pedal Dancer: More Pictures from the Tourmalet

©Photo by PedalDancer.com

#2 Jardins du château de Versailles

The Gardens of Versailles cover 800 hectares (324 acres) of land on the west side of the Palace of Versailles. Late in the 1630's Claude Mollet and Hilaire Masson designed the initial gardens for King Louis XIII. The Gardens of Versailles were further developed in the 1660's by King Louis XIV in the French Garden style and were refined and mostly designed by André Le Nôtre (between 1661 and 1700),. The gardens are most notable for their overwhelming size, broad expanses, and numerous thirsty fountains.

The gardens suffered damage from the 1999 winter storm but have mostly been replanted. You may take a train from Paris to Chateau Versailles using the RER C "yellow" line, 6,80€ for a return trip. See more images of the gardens. The Gardens might be a welcome reprieve from the internal glitz of the palace.

The magnificent hallway of Mirrors at Versaille ©Photo by PedalDancer.com/Kenny Rakestraw

#3 Cormet de Roseland

The Cormet de Roseland is a somewhat obscure climb in the Rhones-Alps region of France. It is one of those climbs that is sometimes included in the Tour de France (the last time was in 2007), but I never knew where this climb was, until I made a point to locate it on a map and go out of our way and climb it in 2007. Cormet de Roseland is a 20.23km steady winding climb to a beautiful lake and mountain pass with little else except for the lovely town of Beaufort at the base of the climb, where cyclists gather in cafes. The descent is screaming fast with recorded speeds of 62mph for riders during the Tour de France. The climb is located east of Albertville, France, the start city of Stage 11 of the 2012 Tour de France. If you are in the area, put it on your "to do" list of climbs.