Tour of Colorado

Will the Tour of Colorado be a reality?

Please please, I want a Tour of Colorado. All I know is I am going to show up for the announcement tomorrow in Denver ... and the ride!

from: @lancearmstrong
Denver! Join me & Gov Ritter @ the Capitol 4 an exciting announcement Wed @ 10am. Bring ur bike because we're ALL going for a ride after..

Quiznos Pro Challenge to be Colorado's top-level pro stage race

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The Valleys of the Pyrenees

Where are the best bike rides in France?

Alright I now feel like I have scouted the area of the Pyrenees in France well enough to offer an organizational summary of cycling in the French Pyrenees. If you are interested in going to France to ride your bike, you probably already have an idea of which climbs you have always wanted to ride. Below I offer a quick summary of where the climbs are located and the nearby towns to search for accommodations.

The cycling climbs in the Pyrenees are long, steep, challenging, and extremely rewarding. If you tackle one of the major cols you will have lots of fellow cyclists on the road with you. If you tackle one of the lesser traveled cols, you might only see 4 other cyclists in the day (on a non-TDF day).  I have * my favorite climbs. If you are the kind of traveler who enjoys finding a base for 4-7 days and riding in a different direction day after day - the Pyrenees are for you. You have lots to choose from.

The Pyrenees Mountains run west to east along the length of the border between Spain and France, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. Along the border are the highest peaks, then an area of foothills unfolds before the rolling hills and plains begin to stretch north through France. Running north and south into the range are a series of consecutive valleys. If you base yourself in a valley you will be able to complete the climbs on the south, east or west sides of your location.

This is pretty much how the Pyrenees works for cycling - you need to know your valley. Choose your valley, consider the nearby airport, find your accommodation, mark your rides on a good detailed map, and go. My favorite valley is the Vallee d'Ossau and then the Vallee d'Arrens - they are breathtakingly beautiful. Also the small roads in the foothills are really nice to ride, so don't miss out on those.

Here is a quick summary of the cycling in the Pyrenees, organized by valley, plus some other information you will need about the area to plan (or dream about) your trip: Bonne Journee!

*Post post: For a pictorial journey from west to east through the French Pyrenees, please visit the PedalDancer.com blog post from October 3, 2010 Valleys of  Pyrenees in Pictures

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Description: Coastal West, Basque Country, and the Haute Soule

Valley: Valley du Petit Nive [Pays Basque and Bearn]

Region: Aquitane

Department: Navarra & Pyrénées-Atlantiques

Main Towns: St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Oloron-Ste-Marie, (Pau)

Cols: Col Bagarqui, Pic des Escaliers, Col d’ Arnosteguy, Pic de Guilhers, Col Hourcere, Col de la Pierre St Martin, Col Erroymendi, Col de Ignace, Col d' Ispeguy, Col d’ Haltza, Col du Landerre, Puerto (Port) de Larrau, Lescun/L’Aberouat, Col de Soudet

Airport: Biarrtiz, Bilbao, Bayonne, Dax, Pau

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Description: Central Pyrenees and Wine Country

Valley: Vallee d’Aspe & Vallee d’Ossau

Region: Aquitane

Department: Pyrénées-Atlantiques

Main Towns: Gan, Oloron-Ste-Marie, Arudy, Bielle, Laruns, (Pau)

Cols: Col d’Ichere, *Col de Marie Blanc, *Col d’Aubisque, *Col du Soulor, Col de Couraduque, Col de Spandelles, Col de Burdincurutcheta, Col d’Irau

Airport: Biarrtiz, Bilbao, Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes, Toulouse

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Description: Heart of the Pyrenees and the Cols of the Tour de France

Valley: Vallee d’Arrens & Vallee Lavanden

Region: Midi-Pyrenees

Department: Hautes-Pyrenees

Main Towns: Lourdes, Argeles-Gazost, Saint Savin, Arrens-Marsous, Cautarets, Luz-Saint-Sauveur

Cols: *Col d’Aubisque, *Col du Soulor, *Hautacam, Col de Tramassel, Cauterets, Luz Ardiden, *Col du Tourmalet, Col de Palomieres, Col des Borderas, Spandelles, Col de Coupe, Pont d’Espagne,

Airport: Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes, Toulouse

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Description: Road to the Tourmalet

Valley: Vallee Adour & Campan Valley

Region: Midi-Pyrenees

Department: Hautes-Pyrenees

Main Towns: Bagneres-de-Bigorre, Marie-de-Campan, (Tarbes)

Cols: *Col du Tourmalet, *Col d’Aspin, *Horquette d’Ancizan, Pont d’Espagne, *Hautacam, Cauterets, Luz Ardiden, *Col du Soulor, Spandelles

Airport: Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes, Toulouse

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Description: Central Mountains and the Cols of the Tour de France

Valley: Vallee d’Aure

Region: Midi-Pyrenees

Department: Hautes-Pyrénées

Main Towns: Arreau, St-Lary-Soulan

Cols: *Col d’Aspin, *Horquette d’ Ancizan, Col de Peyresourde, Col de Portet, Le Pla d'Adet

Airport: Pau, Lourdes, Tarbes, Toulouse, Narbonne, Perpignan

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Description: Eastern Mountains

Valley: Vallee Barrouse & Vallee Luchon

Region: Midi-Pyrenees

Department: Haute-Garonne & Cataluna

Main Towns: Bagneres-de-Luchon, (Saint Gaudens)

Cols: Superbagneres, Col du Portillon, Port de Bales, Col d’Azet/Col de Val Louron-Azet, Col de Portet d’Aspet, Col de Mente

Airport: Toulouse, Narbonne, Perpignan

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Description: Steep Green Hills, Eastern Wine Country, Castles to the Mediterranean

Valley: [Couserans & Sabarthes]

Region: Midi-Pyrenees

Department: Ariege

Main Towns: St-Girons, Foix, Massat, Tarascon-s-Ariege, Ax-les-Thermes, (Toulouse)

Cols: Port de Pailheres, Plateau de Bonascre, Plateau de Beille, Ax-3-Domains, Col de la Core, Col de Port

Airport: Toulouse, Narbonne, Perpignan

I just found this other site's map and explanation. I am not the only one who thinks of the Pyrenees in terms of valleys: touradour.com

Communications in France

How I tried to communicate in France

Tip #1: find a donkey

I wish I was joking, but at one of the accommodations where I stayed in the Barousse Valley of the Pyrenees (I would never stay there again), I had to stand out in the field near the donkey to get phone or 3G reception. It became a running joke among the guests. Coverage of phone and 3G can be spotty in France just as it is in many countries, so I thought I'd share what I learned.

Tip #2: go for the combo

I was often asked during my travels how I managed to communicate while on my vacation in France. The truth is I used a combination of laptop, iPhone, and an International cell phone. (If car GPS counts as communication, then I relied upon that heavily as well). Basically this is how communications worked for me while traveling in France:

• Laptop: Internet connection (wi-fi), email, blogging, Skype (for very cheap phone calls), photo download and archive, mapping, route planning, hotel reservations.
• iPhone: Texting. Very brief 3G internet connect to check wifi trak to see if any free wi-fi networks were within range (SFR, neuf, and most free-wifi spots are not actually accessible even though they do not appear to be locked). Again with 3G on, I used the JiWire global wifi finder app to look for free wi-fi locations near my present location or in nearby towns. I would drive to the location and connect my devices. I also used iPhone for Emergency GPS, and quick download of email if my laptop was not available for use. iPhone also has a Skype app, for very cheap phone calls home to the USA (if I was connected to wi-fi). Data sim cards! try 3G Internet by iphonetrip  http://www.iphonetrip.com/ 
• International phone with a French phone number: Local calls in France, texts, calls to the USA (about a third of the cost of calling on my AT&T iphone plan, but not as cheap as Skype which requires internet access). It was also nice to have a local phone number to give to my B&Bs or hotels, and to call friends in France.

Tip #3: bring all you got

For some reason at certain locations, I would be able to connect to the internet with my laptop, but not my iPhone. Or I could only use my iPhone, but not my laptop. Someone can explain this to me, all I know is it was good to have all three types of devices listed above, because I used all of them at different times. In 5 weeks, I had perhaps 2 days where I felt disconnected. Which is not a good feeling.

Tip #4: the hotel matters

These days it is absolutely possible to have good communications, so choose hotels that have wi-fi at no additional charge. In France wi-fi is pronounced "wee-fee". The hotel should display a wi-fi symbol on their website, but be sure to ask as well. Also if you are an Apple user (like me), specifically ask if their clients can easily connect with an iPhone and laptop. With all the choices available today, you shouldn't need to go without. If they mention a donkey in the field, look elsewhere for accommodations!

Tip #5: the plans

In advance of my travel dates I purchased both an international data roaming plan from my phone carrier (AT&T), and an international text plan. Within the 5 weeks I was able to use my limit of 50MG/month on an AT&T iphone international data-plan by using the 3G as little as possible. Also anytime I did get wi-fi connection I would download all emails so they would not download later while I was on 3G. I also purchased a 50 text plan/month from AT&T, that enabled me to send text messages from France. This plan is not listed on the AT&T website, you will need to call up an AT&T International Representative to ask for this plan. The plan that does show on their website is the plan for sending texts from the USA to Europe. Sort of confusing. Also be sure to keep data roaming turned off until you need it (read some other tips for traveling with your iphone). My family owns and shares an international phone that may be activated whenever we all travel, it is a CallinEurope.com plan.

Tip #6: the files

I am a mobileme user as well. Mobileme is online file sharing. That way no matter what hardware I use, or if I end up in a good old-fashioned cyber-cafe in Europe, I can always access my files. I have a private and a public (with approved access) mobileme account. I can leave my travel documents and information online so my family always knows where I am at, and can help if needed. I can easily access logos, photos, and documents.

Tip #7: have a teammate at home

Even with all my gadgets, I still needed a human on the other end. It is indispensable to have a friend or family member at home who will answer your calls if you need assistance. When my accommodations did not work out (three times in the 5 weeks) I called home to my brother twice. He was able to locate a hotel for the night(s). He also confirmed a flight for me. Trying to do this on my own would have been stressful and easily absorbed 15-20MG of my data-plan and lots of time. I instead was able to spend the time driving to my next location. It is smart to have a contact at home and leave them your flight information (booking ID and passwords) and credit card payment information just in case you need help while on the go.

Tip #8: tis a gift to be simple

One of the joys of traveling is realizing that I really need very little stuff in life. I never felt without during my 5 weeks in France. I had my bike, one suitcase, a picnic/food bag (with a wine opener!), a bag with my cycling helmet, cycling shoes, cycling supplies, and all my gadgets. As long as I could communicate, had gas in the car, had my bike and good maps, I was perfectly content with very little. And yet so much.

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More images of the Tour de France

Here are a few more rider pictures 

From the 2010 Tour de France at the start of Stage #18 in Salies-de-Bearn. I hadn't included these before. The Pays Basque region (the area around Salies-de-Bearn) is a wonderful part of the Pyrenees.

Fabian Wegmann

Andreas Kloden and George Hincapie

 Jergen Van den Broeck

David Millar

Kanstantsin Sivtsov

 Egoi Martinez

 and I couldn't tell who this was:

Images from the Pays Basque region:

Tour de France 2010 recaps and summaries: 
A look back at the Tour de France 2010. Versus Video Summary

A collection of lots of video clips from the 2010 TDF: Tour de France Videos

Pez Cycling: Tour de Pez

Steephill.TV final Tour de France page with all things Tour de France stage by stage

Another blog writer's recap from 2010 worth a browse: CyclingTips: Tour de France Recap

The Flying Fosters Tours recap of their Tour de France Experience

CyclingNews.com: Where the Tour was won 

VeloPeloton: Paddy's Blog (some great pictures!)

Tour de France Tips at tdftips.com

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The Baguette

The perfect baguette is a glorious thing

The baguette seems to be a daily part of life in France. As a visitor, I began to watch, learn, taste, and come to love the baguette.

Delicious plays a big part in describing a baguette. Other than riding my bike and enjoying the incredible scenery of France, one of my fondest memories over the past 5 weeks traveling in France, came at an unexpected yet simple moment. I had returned to Pau, it was 6:04pm. I remember the time because I later thought I need to remember this time. I noticed a long line of people at my favorite bakery in Gan. I opened the door and was greeted by the most wonderful smell of fresh warm bread.

For many weeks I had subconsciously wondered how the French appeared to show such restraint in not immediately devouring their bakery treats. I would watch them walk down the streets with their baguettes in hand, intact, just as I had seen the Great Pyrenees dog walking steadily up the road to the Col du Soulor on July 4th with his baguette still intact. How can they do it? Why don't I see them walking and eating, or eating in their car? How can they restrain themselves? Would I myself be offensive if I started munching away on my chocolat croissant - in public!

Then I experienced the moment. A young man stepped up to his turn in line at that bakery in Gan at 6:06 pm, he bought his baguette and within 2 steps he turned toward the door and took one huge bite from the top of his warm baguette. I couldn't believe what I had finally witnessed! A huge grin spread across his face and his eyes sparkled. This was pure joy. He smiled at the line of people waiting, and we all instinctively smiled back.

I saw it again, that same reckless abandon a few minutes later as another man walked to his car, smiling as he took bite after bite of his bread. He looked directly at me with a broad grin, seeing that I too was doing the same exact thing. I had walked the entire length back to my car across the street closely inhaling the fresh smell of my baguette, clutching it in my hands. It was fresh and warm, hot to hold, and almost too hot to eat. It was heaven.

The memory of this simple communal experience, one day in France, collecting a warm fresh baguette will stay with me for a lifetime. It is odd the things we remember from our travels. I remember a warm baguette as a glorious thing!

I remember coming across this bread delivery bag hanging from the house door outside of the town of Arette, during one of my many bike rides:

Photo by Karen at PedalDancer.com

I remember bringing my baguette home one night:

Photo by Karen at PedalDancer.com

I remember the Great Pyrenees dog walking up the road, all on his own, with his big baguette still intact:

Photo by Karen at PedalDancer.com

I remember every time I saw a Depot of Pain (bread stop) sign in France while out riding my bike, smirking on the meaning in English. I remember almost daily having a baguette, with breakfast, with lunch, with dinner, with joy.

I will miss the French baguette. I live in Denver and am very fortunate to have a French Bakery called Trompeau Bakery (the real thing) just blocks away, tomorrow morning I might just ride my bike over for a baguette.

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Final Stage of the Tour de France

Paris is an amazing city

People people everywhere. The morning in Paris started quiet and calm as I sat having a cappuccino in a cafe just around the corner from my hotel. I was in no rush to get to the Champs Elysees quite yet, although I was looking so forward to the day. Every time I come to Paris I have a different experience. I love museums, but this trip was more about the people.

I did make it over to one museum, the Musee Rodin, I had never been. I sat looking up at The Thinker, thinking, just goes to show you if you sit around too long, a bird will shit on you. 

Also according to Rodin, the Gates of Hell are sort of an intense place to be.

Give me a Michelangelo or a Donatello any day, I think Rodin's hands are just too large. Most impressive was his home and the location of the property; right near the Invalides. Given that he was a modern sculptor, he did pretty well for an artist at the turn of the 20th century in Paris.

I found my way to the not too crowded Metro station to catch the subway to the Champs Elysees for the final stage of the Tour de France. Quickly I realized I was far more interested in the fans, than waiting on the front-lines of the barriers along the Boulevard. I even texted my brother in California at one point, and said "how much longer until the riders arrive in the city?" I couldn't take standing with the crowd pressing in on me any longer. 

So I freed myself, relinquishing my prime spot, and returned to walking among the fun fans instead.

I thought I'd share some images of the fans on Stage #20 of the Tour de France 2010 in Paris:

A very enthusiastic fan named Randal was trying to get the crowd to do the wave. He succeeded in getting it to go all the way around the corner at the end near the Arc du Triomphe. It was lots of fun for the crowd waiting for the race. This was a happy group of people to be around.

I then saw four happy satisfied men standing behind the American contingency, drinking cans of Heineken beer.  After being smashed in the crowd, I needed a beer! I walked straight up to these friendly men and asked, "do you speak English, where did you get your beer?" With perfect detail they directed me straight to the key location I had been longing for.

I wish I had gotten their picture because they ended up inviting me to go out to dinner with them, which was very nice. After the race, we went for Lebanese food and then walked up the Champs Elysees to sit having a beer outside in the Tuileries as the sun was setting. Chris, Mark, and Brian are pilots with Delta and were great fun to spend the evening with. They just happened to fly into town that morning and thought they'd go see the Tour de France.

I did get some pictures of the Caravan (but none are money shots, it was more about being there for me today and enjoying the atmosphere):

The pole dancing Xtra men where a fixture this year in the Caravan (I wonder how many calories they burn a day, and no they weren't out pole dancing on Stage 17 when it was raining so hard). Those StMichel teacakes do not taste very good, in fact most of the treats thrown out from the Caravan are yucky tasting, but the fans love the stuff. I kept giving them away. I did keep the hats galore, and kept piling them on top of my head. (They don't throw any freebies to the crowd along the Champs Elysees though).

Here is a picture of the actual Tour de France race. I didn't get too many shots, instead at every lap I chose to focus on the riders. I tried to pick out Cav or Lance or George or Fabian or Petacchi or Basso or others. The riders go by in a whir, but somehow, I seemed to see Lance on almost every lap. He was easy to spot, as was Contador. 

A few pictures from the procession afterward:

Robbie McEwen

David Zabriskie

Mark Cavendish (thank you Mark for getting this picture of Mark).

George Hincapie

Alessandro Petacchi (do you see the toddler shoes around his neck?)

The Radio Shack Team in their new 28 Livestrong jerseys (in honor of the 28 million Americans living with and surviving cancer)

Rui Costa

Team Astana

This is Alberta Contador .. he is very short, or the crowd was very tall, anyway I saw him, but no pictures really.

Alright that was my day at the finishing stage of the Tour de France 2010. Wow.
I am one year older in age and had a fun time texting my brother and friends during the day, and hanging out with the Delta Pilots. It was well worth traveling to Paris to see the finish. (Although I am not a fan of any of the airports in Paris. Flying in and out of the smaller airports in France is far far better).

Tomorrow I return from Toulouse, through London, back home to Denver, Colorado. Culture shock! and Altitude shock!

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